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Routes in Wall Area

Curry the Dog T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drugs T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gobbledegook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jabberwocky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jacob's Ladder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Laughing Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosquito T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No-see-um T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Age T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Phlegmish Dance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rock and Roll T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SM's Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seam of Destiny T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sex T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smoke Bluff Connection T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sparky's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sphinx'ter Quits T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zombie Roof T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,223 total · 41/month
Shared By: ScottH on May 30, 2008 with updates from Joshua Thompson
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

The most popular link up at the Smoke Bluffs, and with good reason. A case of the sum being greater than its parts.

Climb Mosquito (5.8), then Phlegmish Dance (5.8). Walk ~50 feet through the woods and climb Jabberwocky (5.10b). Finish with Wonderland (5.9). Smile.

Location

Start as for Mosquito. Walk off from the top of Wonderland.

Protection

Gear to 3". Bolted anchors on each pitch.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
Awesome link up, but see my notes on Wonderland about protecting your second..... Aug 19, 2008
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10a/b
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.10a/b
Great half-day bit of climbing. I combined Mosquito and Phlegmish Dance without noticeable rope drag. I imagine you could combine Jabberwocky and Wonderland as well with some confidence. Jul 24, 2012
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
Bolts on Wonderland got chopped. Aug 14, 2012
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
A wonderful, low commitment route (you can walk off the top of every pitch) that samples some of the best cracks at the smoke bluffs. A great alternative to the log-jam, gong-show, "did someone really just drop a nalgene of piss that exploded and showered three parties below", cluster f**k that occurs on the apron routes in the summer.

The trail from the top leads right by pixie corner in case you want to tick off a few more pitches before heading back to your packs. Aug 2, 2016
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, CA
  5.10b
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, CA
  5.10b
I recommend doing White Rabbit (5.10b) after or as a continuation of Jabberwocky before finishing up on Wonderland. Also, since the start of Jabberwocky makes it 10b, let's just call the route that. Sep 9, 2018

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