Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: David Lane and Perry Beckham, 1979
Page Views: 7,762 total · 54/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Jan 20, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


222 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This route climbs the steepest section of the Neat and Cool crag and is named for the now barely readable graffiti at its base.

The steepness of the route, the slippery start and fiddly initial protection makes this route a stiff lead for the grade. It initially diagonals up and left on a finger rail, then traverses back to the right on big holds. At the end of this traverse an underclinging jamming crux leads to a fine but all too short hand crack.

Protection

A couple of medium nuts and finger sized cams (maybe even tricams) protect the start. Hand and fist sized cams for the remainder. Bolted anchors are easily found at the top. The bolts are set up for belaying, not lowering, so walk off the back side.
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
i'd disagree with the poster. the rock is not slippery, and the gear is bomber and plentiful.....its about .10a if you're used to bolts, if you're not, it'll feel a bit harder due to the steep nature of the route. Jul 2, 2007
Peter Spindloe
BC
  5.10a
Peter Spindloe   BC
  5.10a
It's funny, I did it again a few weeks ago and found it pretty straightforward and not slippery this time. It must depend on the day, the humidity, how you feel, etc. Nevertheless, there have been some serious accidents on this climb so some people find it tough some of the time. Nov 11, 2007
Alpine Carl  
 
There is a second set of bolts above the belay bolts Peter mentioned; these are rap-friendly. Rap towards the "road," not the route, for best results. Dec 27, 2007
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
  5.9+
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
  5.9+
Led this route this past Friday, and the gear couldn't have been better. Great route, nonetheless! Jul 20, 2008
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Fun climb for sure. I agree with the PG13 rating for newer trad leaders. After the initial fingers flake you should nest up some pieces before pulling past the horizontal and into the crack above in case you blow it as the initial gear won't keep you off the deck at this point. I've heard of bad accidents on this climb due to ground falls. No problem if 5.10 is routine for you but if it's your limit, stack up the gear in the horizontal. Dont read more if you don't want gear beta, otherwise you can place a #3, red alien and/or solid medium nut side by side to protect that move.

Up higher, I kept left to finish on the slab at top. You need to extend this a long ways for the master point to reach over the lip. Probably better to just go to the right anchor chains above the hand crack. Aug 16, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Good gear opportunity, but not always easy to see or place I suppose. Juggy big moves are fine with confidence, might lead to stirring anyone who is already shaken. Jun 4, 2012
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
I definitely disagree with the PG13 rating. Any route can be considered dangerous for a novice leader. There is plenty of pro to stay safe with and despite the comment about accidents occurring here the route should not have a PG13 rating. Aug 11, 2012
I am not very bold, but I found the pro to be fine, just strenuous to place at times. Fortunately it's easy to step down for great rests before and after placing.

For those wondering about the gear beta, there's a bomber red C3 for the lower crux (can be backed up with a #.3 C4 a little lower) and #.75 C4 for the upper crux (pulling into the final, vertical crack). Beyond that it's straightforward.

I avoided this route for years because of its reputation, and now wish I had jumped on sooner. Maybe not as straightforward to protect as, say, the zip or exasperator, but certainly not run out. Jul 22, 2015
Ambrose Bittner
Seattle, WA
  5.10a
Ambrose Bittner   Seattle, WA
  5.10a
Consider leading this straight up via the platform vs. zigzagging left and then back right. It's much more aesthetic, but a more powerful move -- which also makes your gear placement more critical. You'll want an attentive belayer! May 25, 2016
BigRed11    
I tried this route, fell off the lower crux, and blew a yellow mastercam that I had placed in the small roof before the traverse. Only my belayer kept me off the ground (and a boulder). I'm not a new leader and I double checked that this pro looked good before going for it. Aug 31, 2016