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Routes in Neat and Cool

A Necessary Evil T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ali Booto T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Barefoot Flamingo in China T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Barefoot in China Town T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bruce Lee Vs. The Kiss Army T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Cat Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chalk up Another One T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clean Starts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corn Flakes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Corner Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Edge, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Flying T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying Circus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Geritol T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gross Incompetence T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jigsaw Flow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kangaroo Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Layback Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Little Baby, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mouse Trap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neat and Clean T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neat and Cool T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Neat and Cool Offwidth T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On My Way To The Liquor Store T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pink Flamingo T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Psychopath V3 6A
Raging Duck S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Repeat When Necessary T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sally Five Fingers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stumps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tales From the Gripped V4 6B
There You Go Andy T,S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tree Beard T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Who Needs Apps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: David Lane and Perry Beckham, 1979
Page Views: 6,550 total, 49/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Jan 20, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

This route climbs the steepest section of the Neat and Cool crag and is named for the now barely readable graffiti at its base.

The steepness of the route, the slippery start and fiddly initial protection makes this route a stiff lead for the grade. It initially diagonals up and left on a finger rail, then traverses back to the right on big holds. At the end of this traverse an underclinging jamming crux leads to a fine but all too short hand crack.

Protection

A couple of medium nuts and finger sized cams (maybe even tricams) protect the start. Hand and fist sized cams for the remainder. Bolted anchors are easily found at the top. The bolts are set up for belaying, not lowering, so walk off the back side.
BigRed11    
I tried this route, fell off the lower crux, and blew a yellow mastercam that I had placed in the small roof before the traverse. Only my belayer kept me off the ground (and a boulder). I'm not a new leader and I double checked that this pro looked good before going for it. Aug 31, 2016
Ambrose Bittner
Seattle, WA
  5.10a
Ambrose Bittner   Seattle, WA
  5.10a
Consider leading this straight up via the platform vs. zigzagging left and then back right. It's much more aesthetic, but a more powerful move -- which also makes your gear placement more critical. You'll want an attentive belayer! May 25, 2016
I am not very bold, but I found the pro to be fine, just strenuous to place at times. Fortunately it's easy to step down for great rests before and after placing.

For those wondering about the gear beta, there's a bomber red C3 for the lower crux (can be backed up with a #.3 C4 a little lower) and #.75 C4 for the upper crux (pulling into the final, vertical crack). Beyond that it's straightforward.

I avoided this route for years because of its reputation, and now wish I had jumped on sooner. Maybe not as straightforward to protect as, say, the zip or exasperator, but certainly not run out. Jul 22, 2015
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
I definitely disagree with the PG13 rating. Any route can be considered dangerous for a novice leader. There is plenty of pro to stay safe with and despite the comment about accidents occurring here the route should not have a PG13 rating. Aug 11, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Good gear opportunity, but not always easy to see or place I suppose. Juggy big moves are fine with confidence, might lead to stirring anyone who is already shaken. Jun 4, 2012
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Fun climb for sure. I agree with the PG13 rating for newer trad leaders. After the initial fingers flake you should nest up some pieces before pulling past the horizontal and into the crack above in case you blow it as the initial gear won't keep you off the deck at this point. I've heard of bad accidents on this climb due to ground falls. No problem if 5.10 is routine for you but if it's your limit, stack up the gear in the horizontal. Dont read more if you don't want gear beta, otherwise you can place a #3, red alien and/or solid medium nut side by side to protect that move.

Up higher, I kept left to finish on the slab at top. You need to extend this a long ways for the master point to reach over the lip. Probably better to just go to the right anchor chains above the hand crack. Aug 16, 2011
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.9+
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.9+
Led this route this past Friday, and the gear couldn't have been better. Great route, nonetheless! Jul 20, 2008
Alpine Carl  
 
There is a second set of bolts above the belay bolts Peter mentioned; these are rap-friendly. Rap towards the "road," not the route, for best results. Dec 27, 2007
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
 
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
 
It's funny, I did it again a few weeks ago and found it pretty straightforward and not slippery this time. It must depend on the day, the humidity, how you feel, etc. Nevertheless, there have been some serious accidents on this climb so some people find it tough some of the time. Nov 11, 2007
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
i'd disagree with the poster. the rock is not slippery, and the gear is bomber and plentiful.....its about .10a if you're used to bolts, if you're not, it'll feel a bit harder due to the steep nature of the route. Jul 2, 2007