Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Tim Ryan, Philip Kubik 1980
Page Views: 614 total · 11/month
Shared By: Clint Valentine on Jul 6, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This route follows an obvious easy dyke to an overlap onto a bolted slab. The first bolt is 15m+ high above easy climbing with one technical slab move to put the bolt in reach. Many will bring a #1 and/or #2 to protect the last move to this bolt.

It is possible to trend high, unprotected, and slightly off route left to a tree (dirty and broken), sling it, then traverse right onto the slab at the second bolt. Decent option if you forgot the cams.

Location

You can find this route to the right of Raging Duck at the far left and lower face of Neat and Cool wall. Look for the in-cut dyke.

Protection

#1 or #2 cam. 3 quickdraws to top out anchors with chains. This climb tops out on the Cat Crack ledge.

Photos

Ryan Lynne
  5.10b
Ryan Lynne  
  5.10b
Bring a #2 or #3 camalot for the horizontal crack. There is also a decent but weird piece that can be placed on the way up to the horizontal crack. Easier than its neighboring route Raging Duck. Mar 27, 2016
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Yes, you'll want a #2 or #3 for the horizontal. Good climbing. Aug 27, 2016