Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Tami Knight, Peter Croft, 1978
Page Views: 7,951 total · 56/month
Shared By: Bobby Hanson on May 7, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


187 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

A great hand crack. Plenty of protection for new leaders. Popular.

Just to the right (squeezed) is a bolted face climb. Maybe .10b?

Location

At the left end of Neat and Cool, there is a large ledge above Pink Flamingo, 5.10b and Raging Duck. Cat Crack starts up here. This crack is left of the big flake/arete forming The Edge. To get to it, you need to mantle up onto a boulder (awkward with another boulder above it). Then climb the corner to the ledge. Many do this unroped, but you can also belay this. There is a two-bolt rappel anchor on the ledge (top of Pink Flamingo).

Protection

Gear to 2 or 2.5 inches. There are placements for larger gear, but there are also small placements right next to those. Two bolts at the top. Walk off right to get to the main trail, left to get to the big ledge system.

Photos

Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.6
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.6
Great hand jams, really fun. A good reminder that it's usually more fun to climb a route that's great than a route that's at your level. (Both is best though!)

The original poster makes it sound difficult/dangerous to get to. There's a path to the left up a knotted rope that takes you up to all the climbs at this level. Mar 6, 2010