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Routes in Neat and Cool

A Necessary Evil T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ali Booto T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Barefoot Flamingo in China T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Barefoot in China Town T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bruce Lee Vs. The Kiss Army T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Cat Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chalk up Another One T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clean Starts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corn Flakes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Corner Crack T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Edge, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Flying T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying Circus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Geritol T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gross Incompetence T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jigsaw Flow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kangaroo Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Layback Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Little Baby, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mouse Trap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neat and Clean T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neat and Cool T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Neat and Cool Offwidth T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On My Way To The Liquor Store T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pink Flamingo T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Psychopath V3 6A
Raging Duck S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Repeat When Necessary T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sally Five Fingers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stumps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tales From the Gripped V4 6B
There You Go Andy T,S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tree Beard T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twisted S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Who Needs Apps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Ivan Christianson, Rolf Rybak, Todd Guyn 1986
Page Views: 490 total, 12/month
Shared By: Clint Valentine on Jul 6, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

Follow 5 bolts up a steep slab with two overlaps. Crux may be getting to the first bolt. Some may want to stick clip. A combination of technical slab and and two mantle/lock-off moves will see you to the chains on the Cat Crack ledge.

Location

This route is the leftmost route at the Neat and Cool wall found just below and left the main face. This climb tops out on the Cat Crack ledge.

Protection

5 quickdraws to chained anchors. Optional #1 or #2 may fit the first horizontal crack.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
I got a perfect #2 camalot at the horizontal tucked in the back. And I also a nice yellow C3 in the upper crack between bolt 4 and 5 (not that it is terribly needed)l Aug 27, 2016
Ryan Lynne
  5.10c
Ryan Lynne  
  5.10c
This climb originally had two bolts before it was retro bolted. Guidebook has it as 5.10b but I felt that it was more like a 5.10c.

This climb is now well protected, optionally bring some cams as mentioned in the previous post.

First crux is getting past the first bolt to the horizontal. Second crux is getting off the horizontal and onto the upper slab. Mar 27, 2016
Good fun, a slab for those who don't like slab, it's a bit steeper than usual but well-featured.

Unless you're very confident in your slab technique you'll want to protect the first horizontal break. A 0.75 camalot fits best here. There is also room for a 0.3 camalot at the upper horizontal. Mar 2, 2015