Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Ivan Christianson, Rolf Rybak, Todd Guyn 1986
Page Views: 672 total · 12/month
Shared By: Clint Valentine on Jul 6, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Follow 5 bolts up a steep slab with two overlaps. Crux may be getting to the first bolt. Some may want to stick clip. A combination of technical slab and and two mantle/lock-off moves will see you to the chains on the Cat Crack ledge.

Location

This route is the leftmost route at the Neat and Cool wall found just below and left the main face. This climb tops out on the Cat Crack ledge.

Protection

5 quickdraws to chained anchors. Optional #1 or #2 may fit the first horizontal crack.

Photos

Good fun, a slab for those who don't like slab, it's a bit steeper than usual but well-featured.

Unless you're very confident in your slab technique you'll want to protect the first horizontal break. A 0.75 camalot fits best here. There is also room for a 0.3 camalot at the upper horizontal. Mar 2, 2015
Ryan Lynne
  5.10c
Ryan Lynne  
  5.10c
This climb originally had two bolts before it was retro bolted. Guidebook has it as 5.10b but I felt that it was more like a 5.10c.

This climb is now well protected, optionally bring some cams as mentioned in the previous post.

First crux is getting past the first bolt to the horizontal. Second crux is getting off the horizontal and onto the upper slab. Mar 27, 2016
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
I got a perfect #2 camalot at the horizontal tucked in the back. And I also a nice yellow C3 in the upper crack between bolt 4 and 5 (not that it is terribly needed)l Aug 27, 2016