Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: 1978: Peter Croft and Tami Knight
Page Views: 3,364 total · 22/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Mar 22, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


95 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This is a short route with perhaps twenty feet of 5.11a climbing right off the deck followed by another ten feet of 5.8. Despite that, the climbing is good and worthwhile. The crux is sutained finger-tips with tough laybacking and stemming.

This route is often cited as a good first 5.11 gear lead. I think that it is, as long as the leader does place adequate protection (since it's tough right off the deck).

Location

This is the right-facing dihedral immediately right of the drill holes from where the cliff was blasted.

Protection

Small finger-tip-sized Stoppers and a small cam or two for the crux. A few medium Stoppers to finish. Bolted anchors can be found near the top of the cliff.
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Classic. As Peter says, a great choice for breaking into leading trad 11s. Jul 21, 2006
Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
Good gear, sequency... Apr 21, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Done ti both ways, but is a good deal easier to cheat out left and use the drilled holes from the blasting. Maybe mid to hard 5.10's. Putting the left side "off" where the drilling was done keeps it harder, but still light for 11a. Jul 4, 2009
Brandontru
Nevada
  5.11a/b
Brandontru   Nevada
  5.11a/b
One of the funnest things to do, nice to play on if you are waiting for another climb. Mar 4, 2010
Ross Morgan
Taos, NM
  5.11a
Ross Morgan   Taos, NM
  5.11a
Felt like a solid 11a to me. Dec 3, 2011
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
 
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
 
Went for the redpoint on this and Flying Circus (10a) yesterday. Got this one, hung on FC. I don't know if that tells you more about my endurance (terrible, and worst in January) than the grading, but thought I'd throw that out there. I've never redpointed a 10d trad route (yet) either, so some more food for thought. I'm not grading it because I'm not too familiar with crack grades beyond solid 5.10, but I'm thinking this has to be soft.

Anyhow, bomber small nuts for the first part, then bomber finger-sized cams before the (easy) runout. Fun, you can squeeze this route in quickly as the challenge is only for a few minutes, then it's an easy romp. Jan 3, 2013
Ryan Lynne
  5.11a
Ryan Lynne  
  5.11a
I don't know if I would recommend this as an easy 5.11 gear lead as even though the gear is bomber it can be hard to place "onsight". I recommend placing a small cam down low and then small nuts all the way up. The low cam will protect your nut placements from zippering.

Once you get a hand onto the horizontal at the top of the drill holes, the climb is essentially over and its an easy 5.8 to the chains. A single hand size cam is more than enough to protect this final section.

This climb is a good candidate for a high ball boulder problem. May 30, 2016
Michael T
SEATTLE
  5.11a
Michael T   SEATTLE
  5.11a
Great first 5.11 lead! The crucial foot on the right is so polished my shoes were squeaking, made it a little harder to commit to the full stem. Aug 23, 2017