All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Smoke Bluffs > Neat & Cool

Kangaroo Corner

Name: Kangaroo Corner
Rating: 2.8

5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Neat and Cool

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Necessary Evil T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ali Booto T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Asian Princess Hates Left Turns T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Barefoot Flamingo in China T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Barefoot in China Town T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	batcave T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
	Bruce Lee Vs. The Kiss Army T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
	Cat Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Chalk up Another One T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Clean Starts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Coffee Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Corner Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Cornflakes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Edge, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fear of Flying T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Flying Circus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Geritol T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Gollum's Impromptu Sacrifice T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4
	Gross Incompetence T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	House Music T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Jigsaw Flow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Kangaroo Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	King of Rock T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Layback Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Little Baby, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mouse Trap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Muddy Waters V10 7C+
	Neat and Clean T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Neat and Cool T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Neat and Cool Offwidth T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	On My Way To The Liquor Store T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pink Flamingo T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Psychopath V3 6A
	Raging Duck S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Repeat When Necessary T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sally Five Fingers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stumps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tales From the Gripped V4 6B
	There You Go Andy T,S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Tree Beard T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Twisted S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Wasted Days and Nights S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Where Ancients Fear to Tread T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Who Needs Apps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type:	Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA:	1978: Peter Croft and Tami Knight
Page Views:	5,910 total · 28/month
Shared By:	Peter Spindloe on Mar 22, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

This is a short route with perhaps twenty feet of 5.11a climbing right off the deck followed by another ten feet of 5.8. Despite that, the climbing is good and worthwhile. The crux is sutained finger-tips with tough laybacking and stemming.

This route is often cited as a good first 5.11 gear lead. I think that it is, as long as the leader does place adequate protection (since it's tough right off the deck).

Location

This is the right-facing dihedral immediately right of the drill holes from where the cliff was blasted.

Protection

Small finger-tip-sized Stoppers and a small cam or two for the crux. A few medium Stoppers to finish. Bolted anchor with chains can be found near the top of the cliff.