All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Smoke Bluffs > Neat & Cool

The Edge

Name: The Edge
Rating: 2.1

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Neat and Cool

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Necessary Evil T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ali Booto T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Asian Princess Hates Left Turns T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Barefoot Flamingo in China T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0- 4-
	Barefoot in China Town T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	batcave T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
	Bruce Lee Vs. The Kiss Army T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
	Cat Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Cat Scan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Chalk up Another One T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Clean Starts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Clean Starts Left Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Clean Starts Leftmost Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Coffee Break T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Corner Crack T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Cornflakes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Edge, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Fear Of Dying T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Fear of Flying T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Flying Circus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Geritol T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Gollum's Impromptu Sacrifice T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4
	Gross Incompetence T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	House Music T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Jigsaw Flow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Kangaroo Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	King of Rock T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Layback Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Little Baby, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mouse Trap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Muddy Waters V10 7C+
	Neat and Clean T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Neat and Cool T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Neat and Cool Offwidth T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	No Yankee Colonizers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	On My Way To The Liquor Store T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pink Flamingo T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Psychopath V3 6A
	Raging Duck S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Repeat When Necessary T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sally Five Fingers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stumps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tales From the Gripped V4 6B
	There You Go Andy T,S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Tree Beard T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Twisted S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Via Ferrata Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
	Wasted Days and Nights S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Where Ancients Fear to Tread T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Who Needs Apps T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:

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Type:	Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m)
GPS:	49.706, -123.1403
FA:	Joe Turley, Gene Smith (1980)
Page Views:	1,424 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Ryan Lynne on May 29, 2016
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

Climb onto the large block between Mouse Trap and Corner Crack. Once on top, face climb past three bolts to the left of the arete. Avoid any temptation to use the Mouse Trap crack. Finish up using either the two cracks above.

The first bolt of off the large block is somewhat high and unprotected if you start up using Corner Crack. If you instead use Mouse Trap to start, you can place a high piece of gear in the crack and then step over to the block or alternatively face climb over to the first bolt from the crack.