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Neat and Cool

5.10a, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 383 votes
FA: David Lane and Perry Beckham, 1979
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Smoke Bluffs > Neat & Cool
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Description

This route climbs the steepest section of the Neat and Cool crag and is named for the now barely readable graffiti at its base.

The steepness of the route, the slippery start and fiddly initial protection makes this route a stiff lead for the grade. It initially diagonals up and left on a finger rail, then traverses back to the right on big holds. At the end of this traverse an underclinging jamming crux leads to a fine but all too short hand crack.

Protection

A couple of medium nuts and finger sized cams (maybe even tricams) protect the start. Hand and fist sized cams for the remainder. Bolted anchors are easily found at the top. The bolts are set up for belaying, not lowering, so walk off the back side.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Peter Croft halfway up Neat and Cool
[Hide Photo] Peter Croft halfway up Neat and Cool
Me on Neat and Cool with the Chief in the background
[Hide Photo] Me on Neat and Cool with the Chief in the background
Neat and Cool at sunset
[Hide Photo] Neat and Cool at sunset
On what I considered the crux.
[Hide Photo] On what I considered the crux.
Peter Croft starting up Neat and Cool.
[Hide Photo] Peter Croft starting up Neat and Cool.
Getting started. Photo by JH.
[Hide Photo] Getting started. Photo by JH.
Starting up.
[Hide Photo] Starting up.
Face view of Neat and Cool
[Hide Photo] Face view of Neat and Cool
Finishing up the traverse right. Photo by JH.
[Hide Photo] Finishing up the traverse right. Photo by JH.
Stemming the initial overhang. Photo by JH.
[Hide Photo] Stemming the initial overhang. Photo by JH.
Neat and Cool
[Hide Photo] Neat and Cool

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Peter Spindloe
BC
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] It's funny, I did it again a few weeks ago and found it pretty straightforward and not slippery this time. It must depend on the day, the humidity, how you feel, etc. Nevertheless, there have been some serious accidents on this climb so some people find it tough some of the time. Nov 11, 2007
Alpine Carl
 
[Hide Comment] There is a second set of bolts above the belay bolts Peter mentioned; these are rap-friendly. Rap towards the "road," not the route, for best results. Dec 27, 2007
Chris Duca
Dixfield, ME
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Led this route this past Friday, and the gear couldn't have been better. Great route, nonetheless! Jul 20, 2008
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Fun climb for sure. I agree with the PG13 rating for newer trad leaders. After the initial fingers flake you should nest up some pieces before pulling past the horizontal and into the crack above in case you blow it as the initial gear won't keep you off the deck at this point. I've heard of bad accidents on this climb due to ground falls. No problem if 5.10 is routine for you but if it's your limit, stack up the gear in the horizontal. Dont read more if you don't want gear beta, otherwise you can place a #3, red alien and/or solid medium nut side by side to protect that move.

Up higher, I kept left to finish on the slab at top. You need to extend this a long ways for the master point to reach over the lip. Probably better to just go to the right anchor chains above the hand crack. Aug 16, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Good gear opportunity, but not always easy to see or place I suppose. Juggy big moves are fine with confidence, might lead to stirring anyone who is already shaken. Jun 4, 2012
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
[Hide Comment] I definitely disagree with the PG13 rating. Any route can be considered dangerous for a novice leader. There is plenty of pro to stay safe with and despite the comment about accidents occurring here the route should not have a PG13 rating. Aug 11, 2012
Mark van Eijk
 
[Hide Comment] I am not very bold, but I found the pro to be fine, just strenuous to place at times. Fortunately it's easy to step down for great rests before and after placing.

For those wondering about the gear beta, there's a bomber red C3 for the lower crux (can be backed up with a #.3 C4 a little lower) and #.75 C4 for the upper crux (pulling into the final, vertical crack). Beyond that it's straightforward.

I avoided this route for years because of its reputation, and now wish I had jumped on sooner. Maybe not as straightforward to protect as, say, the zip or exasperator, but certainly not run out. Jul 22, 2015
Ambrose Bittner
Seattle, WA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Consider leading this straight up via the platform vs. zigzagging left and then back right. It's much more aesthetic, but a more powerful move -- which also makes your gear placement more critical. You'll want an attentive belayer! May 25, 2016
Big Red
Seattle
[Hide Comment] I tried this route, fell off the lower crux, and blew a yellow mastercam that I had placed in the small roof before the traverse. Only my belayer kept me off the ground (and a boulder). I'm not a new leader and I double checked that this pro looked good before going for it. Aug 31, 2016
Uknown Unknown
Vancouver, BC
[Hide Comment] Really fun / good climb but would not do it again. Rope drag is insane and will kill your rope. You will need to extend everything + with 120cms. Interesting and insecure moves with tricky pro. Sep 7, 2021
Adrian Suskauer
Vancouver, BC
 
[Hide Comment] A competent leader can easily manage the potential drag without the use of double length slings. It's as simple as placing pro that's reasonably in line, and not sewing it up unnecessarily. You'd pump out if you tried that anyway... Apr 1, 2022
Jemma T
[Hide Comment] Was climbing up from the anchor today and a big slab of rock came out of the crack right before the top. So just FYI there is one less hold there now. 7 days ago