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Split Asunder Rock Climbing
Routes in Split Asunder
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Alderus Stumpledore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Amy's Huckleberry T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Arete Asunder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Baby Boomstick S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bean is Best T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Beef, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bile Oozer T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Black Sheep T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bye, Bud T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Catwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Confluence Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cruiser T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Digestive Tract T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Enigmatic T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ephemeral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fell on Bart T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flame, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Forgotten Tears T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Hocus Pocus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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La-Tea-Da T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Slanter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mantleshelf Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Midnight Mover T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Moment, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Old Dog, New Tricks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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OPEN PROJECT S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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OPEN PROJECT A0 |
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OPEN PROJECT S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Owl, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Root Canal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shirker T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Since You Is T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Split Asunder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sunny Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sunny Summit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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This Way, That Way S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Trench Evader T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trench Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Witty S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Elevation: | 527 ft | 161 m |
| GPS: |
49.70869, -123.13915 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 1,012 total · 32/month | |
| Shared By: | Ryan Pierce on Jun 11, 2023 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Discovered between 2009-2011 by Jason Green, Robin Barley, and a few others, Split Asunder was lost for a period of time and reclaimed back by the forest. Many new routes were developed in 2022 and the winter saw a complete overhaul of anchor hardware. A major rescrubbing was done by ACC Squamish in 2023.
Host to numerous routes in the 5.8 - 5.10- range from crack climbing to crimpy sport and even a must-do chimney.
There are 2 rap stations above the main wall to give access to route anchors. There is a fixed line down a gully to allow access to Upper Tier routes. Nearly all routes have rap chains.
QuickDraw has a great topo for the area here: quickdrawpublications.com/w…
Getting There
Hike up to the base of Lumberland via the loop trail. From the base, follow a rough path on the left side up a short hill. When at the top of the short hill, Split Asunder will be visible through the trees off to your left. Follow the trail left and loop around passing a beautiful viewpoint with a bench. Shortly after this, a path leading to the base will appear on your right.
Classic Climbing Routes at Split Asunder
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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