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The Valley of Shaddai Rock Climbing
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| Elevation: | 882 ft | 269 m |
| GPS: |
49.6416, -123.2009 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 14,577 total · 73/month | |
| Shared By: | Peter Spindloe on Aug 27, 2008 | |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This is an area where you are almost guaranteed solitude and privacy. While it's very close to Murrin Park, it's rarely visited due to the stout approach: the distance isn't great, but it's pretty rugged. The payoff is a beautiful valley, isolated from road noise, cool temperatures on a hot day, and some very nice routes.
This valley has never been logged and has a Lost World feel. My partner commented that he half expected pygmies with bones through their noses to shoot poison darts at us while we were there.
Of the crags in this area, some may be overgrown and lost, but Donny's Roof and The Pillar of Payan, at least, look good. According to various blogs by local hardpeople, the route Zap Crack (12d crack) has seen a fair number of redpoints in the last few years.
This valley has never been logged and has a Lost World feel. My partner commented that he half expected pygmies with bones through their noses to shoot poison darts at us while we were there.
Of the crags in this area, some may be overgrown and lost, but Donny's Roof and The Pillar of Payan, at least, look good. According to various blogs by local hardpeople, the route Zap Crack (12d crack) has seen a fair number of redpoints in the last few years.
Getting There
Park as for Murrin Park, cross the road (carefully!) and walk south past Leviticus and past Browning Bluff (the cliff just south of Leviticus and opposite the lake). Less than 50 feet south of Browning Bluff a rough trail heads up into the woods.
Follow this steep trail until you see a scraggly crag ("Above-the-Lake"). Head right and then up steeply for ten minutes. You will pass through a narrowing referred to as the Quail's Gate in McLane's book. One of the areas, Entrance Exam, is left of the gate. After passing through the Quail's Gate, you will reach the top of a North-South ridge. You can head north to access two crags (Closing Number and Fan the Flame), south to The Needle or the Mountianeers Cliff, or continue east into the Valley itself.
The descent into the Valley is steep. While there are many hand-lines on Squamish trails, climbers tend to ignore them, but this is one that you'll use and get some rope burn from.
At the bottom of the gully you'll see the Donny's Roof crag on the left and Gym Dandy on the right. Further south is Alex's Room, The Pillar of Payan, Emmies Landing and the Wonder Wall.
Follow this steep trail until you see a scraggly crag ("Above-the-Lake"). Head right and then up steeply for ten minutes. You will pass through a narrowing referred to as the Quail's Gate in McLane's book. One of the areas, Entrance Exam, is left of the gate. After passing through the Quail's Gate, you will reach the top of a North-South ridge. You can head north to access two crags (Closing Number and Fan the Flame), south to The Needle or the Mountianeers Cliff, or continue east into the Valley itself.
The descent into the Valley is steep. While there are many hand-lines on Squamish trails, climbers tend to ignore them, but this is one that you'll use and get some rope burn from.
At the bottom of the gully you'll see the Donny's Roof crag on the left and Gym Dandy on the right. Further south is Alex's Room, The Pillar of Payan, Emmies Landing and the Wonder Wall.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Valley of Shaddai
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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All Photos Within The Valley of Shaddai
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