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Routes in The Pillar of Payan

Cliptomaniac S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Just Blessed T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Glenn Payan, Jeff Thomson and John Thompson Aug. 1997
Page Views: 1,264 total · 12/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Aug 25, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description [Edit]

If you're going to make the trek to the Valley of Shaddai then this route is a must while you're there. Climb the left facing dihedral for about 35' to a nice ledge and a brief rest before launching into the harder climbing. Follow an obvious vertical crack that ranges in size from finger to hands with nice jamming and face holds. After about 90' of climbing the crack traverses almost straight left for an exciting finish to the anchors.

Location [Edit]

This route is the obvious left facing corner to a crack just left of Cliptomaniac.

Protection [Edit]

A set of wires and small cams up to a #3 Camalot. Two bolt anchor at the top (Cliptomaniac shares this anchor).

Photos

Mark van Eijk
  5.10c
Mark van Eijk  
  5.10c
This route is the bee's knees!!! Relentless and surprising, it seems like it changes character for every move along its (considerable) length. What appears at first to be a straightforward hand-and-finger crack quickly turns into an all-out battle requiring delicate edging, stemming, smearing, and a powerful juggy traverse (plus the expected and excellent hand and finger jamming). So far I've only tried it on toprope but it seems like it protects well throughout with good rests on edges between the cruxes. Definitely a slog to get to, definitely do it anyways. Seriously. Sep 3, 2011
Mike Teschke
North Vancouver
 
Mike Teschke   North Vancouver
 
It's the crack to the right of Cliptomaniac... It's pretty obvious though. AWESOME fun!
The McLane guidebook suggest bringing two ropes to lower from the anchors, one 70m rope will work perfectly fine. Aug 19, 2012
Just wanted to throw in that one 60m rope will suffice. I promise Sep 16, 2013

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