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> Stawamus Chief
> Bulletheads
> Bulletheads, Central
Third Abortion
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 2.1 from 8
votes
Routes in Bulletheads, Central
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Bullethead East T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bulletheads Central T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chimp Dip T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Don't Antiheasel Your Weasel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dyke Link S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Krimo Gold T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Liquid Gold T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mark of Zorro, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Marooned T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Moonwatcher T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Retrospect T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ride the Bullet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sneak Attack T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13 |
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Third Abortion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Ticket to Ride T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tonatiuh S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Zappa Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.6807, -123.1474 |
| FA: | FA (aid) Neil Bennett, Tim Auger 1969. FFA P1-3 Harry Young, Glenn Woloski 2017. FFA P4 Unknown. |
| Page Views: | 622 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Joël Faubert on Aug 6, 2021 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Interesting line that needs more traffic. Thought provoking climbing on the first 2 pitches, which are slightly weird.
P1 : Follow an arching left facing corner. Some hollow flakes. Tricky moves past a bolt and the belay. 11a.
P2 : Short pitch. Follow the seam up through a couple pin scars to weird moves over a bulge, then a left facing corner and a leftwards traverse to the belay. 10c. Tricky to protect well.
P3 : Obvious finger crack to a wide section. #4 camalot very useful here. A great pitch. 10c.
P4 : Traverse dead left along the crack with thought provoking moves. 11a.
P5 : The 11b finger crack of Bullethead Central. Amazing pitch, the best of the route. 60m
Photos
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