Type: Trad, 550 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA: Gordie Smaill, Mike Wisnicki, 1971, FFA: ?
Page Views: 3,772 total · 41/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Aug 2, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details


Completely panned in McLane's guidebook as wet and rated 5.9 A2, it has recently been cleaned and freed at 10+. The first three pitches are good, but it's the final pitch that gives it the three stars. The final pitch is a 70m rope-stretching epic that deserves its own name.

We encountered a bit of wetness in a few unfortunate spots. It probably needs two weeks of warm weather without rain to be completely dry.

Tape gloves are highly recommended.

Pitch 1: This pitch is a thinker. Several different ways of doing it are possible. Follow the left facing crack to a tricky layback move. From here you could probably go left, but I found that right, up, and then left worked for me. Once on the left-trending overlaps you can choose to stay on one or move up and and down between them as you work your way to the ramp left of the first bolt. Clipping the first bolt requires committing to tough slab feet (maybe not if you're 6'6"). From there keep going past the second bolt after which the grade eases to 5.9 and runs out a good 20 feet to the corner. Build a belay in the corner. Several 5.10+ cruxes. Watch for rope drag. 30m.

Pitch 2: Climb awkwardly right off the belay under an overlap to a good stance below a left facing flare. The back of the flare takes ok gear and good fist/hand jams, but is deep enough that it's very difficult to move off the jams. The left wall was wet so we pulled on the gear. Dry it's probably thuggish 10. A wide left facing crack leads up and turns into an undercling to an obvious belay alcove. 5.10, 20m.

Pitch 3: Step around the little roof above the belay alcove and head up into the chimney. Place gear as high as possible in the chimney (#3 Camalot), and then downclimb until you can get outside the chimney and make offwidth moves to get above the chimney. It helps to arrange your gear so it's not in the way. The rest of the pitch is probably 5.8 or 5.9, but quite long and finishes with a very pretty finger crack to a treed ledge. It might be possible to take the corner right of the finger crack, but it didn't look well traveled or anywhere near as nice. 5.10, 30m.

Pitch 4: This pitch is obvious from the belay ledge. It goes straight up the amazing face and finishes left of the obvious headwall. It is a FULL 70m and has no fixed gear. It will take tons of gear -- the key is not running out. Use nuts to preserve cams. The line is quite straight but it's so long you want to use runners to keep drag at an absolute minimum. Just when you think you have it made, there's one hard move to get established in the final corner, but it quickly eases off after that. Keep going right to the forest. There are several distinct cruxes and lots of continuous jamming between them. It would be possible to stop at less than 60m, just below the headwall if using a 60m rope or out of gear (but you would need some for the belay). 5.10+, 70m!


Walking north along the trail from the Campground Wall you will pass Rainy Day Dream Away, and then Bullethead East (also recently cleaned). The trail splits around a block. Take the right fork (or left and then double back). From a nice flat spot on the trail you can look up to see the route. The roof capping the fourth pitch is a good landmark, as are the two bolts at the top of the first pitch (they aren't immediately obvious though, and you will probably only see one).

From the top of the fourth pitch, the trail (regardless of whether rappelling or walking down) is about thirty feet into the brush.

It's supposed to be possible to descend by rappelling Wild Turkey, but there were only bolts, no chains or rings, at the top of that route. There was a station with chains heading down into the gulley that separates the Bulletheads from the Tantalus wall, but we elected to descend by following the obvious trail system south. Along the trail there is a fixed line that goes down a steep gulley. Belaying or rappelling it will ease the anxiety level, but it's not necessary as long as the fixed line is in good condition.


With the exception of two bolts on a slab traverse on the first pitch, this routes requires all natural gear, including the belays. A good selection of nuts is very useful, as are double cams right up to #3 camalot size. A #3.5 camalot is important but we didn't feel a #4 was necessary. A few micro cams are nice and many runners are essential (at least twelve three footers) plus some draws.


Mike Teschke
North Vancouver
Mike Teschke   North Vancouver
In McLane's new Western Canada Select guide this route has an updated topo and route description. Aug 4, 2011
Ross Morgan
Taos, NM
Ross Morgan   Taos, NM
Excellent route! My partner had to leave a stuck green C4 on pitch 4 on 7/19/2012; +10 Karma points if anyone wants to return it. Jul 20, 2012
Phill T
Phill T  
to help ID p1, you can see some rap anchors towards the top of p1 left of the slab traverse. The '10c OW' on p3 is no such thing. maybe a 5.9 chimney with no OW required if you face out and rack on the right. We had a full double rack to 4" and my partner only had 2 small aliens and 3-4 nuts left after leading the monster 70m final pitch! Rap down Bulletheads East with a single 70. every pitch was different and fun! Aug 16, 2012
Great route. The chimney pitch was a blast - no need to be scared of that pitch! Straightforward, fun descent down the trail/fixed ropes (you can easily rap if the fixed ropes don't look good). 30 minutes to the car. Double set of cams to 4" works but it wouldn't hurt to have triples of fingers to hands size for the long crux pitch. Sep 16, 2012
There is a 10c finger crack variation on the third pitch that starts from the same ledge. It's about 20 feet to the left and has two bolts to start. This is a good option if the chimney pitch is wet. When we recently climbed liquid gold (in October!) the chimney pitch was the only wet pitch. Oct 15, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
I understand Andrew Boyd was on the FFA. Anyone know more? When done? Jun 30, 2014
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
Top 100 in the guidebook, huh? I must have been missing something. The 1st pitch was pretty cool, but the 2nd and 3rd were pretty nasty - dirty, loose, etc. The 4th pitch was great, but after the middle pitches I was feeling pretty over it. Also, the 4th pitch is not obvious in terms of route finding. There is a massive, full extension (at least for me) rightward crack switch. I started going up left in the well traveled, well chalked finger crack, which just ended at a seam and a sloping ledge. This was not very fun to down climb, back clean, and then make the massive crack switch. Perhaps Krimo Gold is the way to climb this? Jul 5, 2015
I thought this climb was a nice outing. I accidentally linked P2-3 together to the ledge below the final pitch. This is actually somewhat reasonable if you string out the gear a bit in the chimneys and use lots of runners. I too kept expecting 5.10 offwidth but found only that little 5.9ish chimney section. As has been said, the final 70m pitch is quite good. Didn't find much dirt on the route, just some scruffy rock in the chimney

Our biggest mistake was attempting to rap Wild Turkey. Apparently if you do it correctly, you go more to the 'skier's right', as they say, and end up making a few clean double rope raps to the ground. Not being hip to this fact, I rapped more or less straight down to a ledge with an anchor. The next rappel was into the trees; fortuitously someone had made the same error previously and there was a sling anchor available. The final rap almost reached the path on a higher ledge near the ground and ultimately did once I re-equalized our 70m/60m rope combo. Fortunately the ropes didn't hang on any of the dozen dead snags or medium sized trees on their way down. I guess my point is, don't do this! It sounds like there are much better options.

I think the criteria for a Top 100 route in the Select guide are fairly subjective as opposed to just being "The Best 100 Routes Ever". This climb is a little more off the beaten path (but not much) and has some blue collar climbing and one very elegant pitch. It's definitely worth doing! Aug 5, 2015
Aeon Aki

  5.10+ PG13
Aeon Aki    
  5.10+ PG13
My two cents after a rough day on Liquid Gold:

P1: OK climbing up a leaning seam leads to a slopey ledge. A bit scary (and possibly dangerous if you can't reach the bolt) across the slab and very awkward in the corner. Not very classic.
P2: Awkward, left leaning corner with (by Squamish standards) fairly chossy rock and cracks that produce fistfuls of mud. Exit this pitch by slab crawling through more choss/lichen. Not very classic.
P3: A pretty cool squeeze chimney with good exposure and moderate OW techniques. If you choose to stay in that crack, leading up right through the corner above, expect 5th class gully climbing through the dirt. Not very classic.
P4: Endless 5.10 climbing through cool finger/hand cracks. Pretty sustained with several cruxy moves. Pretty classic.
P5: If you didn't link the whole crack to the top, you'll have to bust out one last awkward 5.10 move before it eases off to the summit. Belay from tree. Not very classic.

DO NOT RAP the Wild Turkey zone as described in the guidebook. Most likely you will end up 50m from the ground with no bolted anchors in sight and enough trees surrounding you to snag all of your rope. Not very classic but you'll have earned your dinner. Jul 5, 2016
Ryan Hoover
Marysville, Wa
Ryan Hoover   Marysville, Wa
I didn't find any dirty climbing and thought the route was classic. Aug 4, 2016
Matt Hoffmann
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
After climbing the first two pitches I was completely confused as to why this would marked as a top 100. After climbing the last 2 pitches I was completely on-board.

P1 (10+) - Awkward climbing with a runout traverse. Not very fun. Gear belay. Note: Make sure you do NOT go out left to the bolted belay. You'll see a bolt that is out of reach above you, traverse left to the point where you can shove in a purple C4, then clip the bolt, back-clean the purple and continue on your way.
P2 (10+) - OK climbing, nothing special. Gear belay.
P3 (10b) - Pretty fun chimney/offwidth/face climbing to a nice slanting crack. Ends on a big ledge. Cool. Tree belay.
P4/5 (10+) - Do them as one pitch, you don't need much gear for the last 15 meters. Super fun! Long pitch of great crack climbing. Plenty of places to rest and shake out. Tons of nut placements to conserve your gear, safe, fun and long. One of the best 5.10 crack pitches in Squamish.

Gear Beta:
Lots of nuts. Lots of draws for the nuts. Double from small cams to yellow C4. One #3 (2x if you like placing a lot of gear). 1x #4 if you are really nervous. Aug 14, 2017