Avg: 3.5 from 36 votes
|Type:||Trad, 185 ft (56 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||Aaron Kristiansen, Luke Cormier, 2012|
|Page Views:||2,977 total · 39/month|
|Shared By:||geoff georges on Jun 25, 2014|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
If Half Moon chimney is wet or you are not into the run out slab you can do this excellent variation.
Pitch 1) LG 10c/d shallow LFC, gradually gets harder as you go up till you are trying to fiddle in some small cams as you come around the crescent overlaps toward the anchor. There is some bigger cam placements out right and dyke holds up high. The bolted anchor is out left, and the original LG bolt and traverse goes right toward the big corner.30M
Pitch 2) 10c, head for 2 bolt traverse across dyke holds, fun moves and get on hand crack, keep going into RFC and layback up to ramps and easy cracks to bolted belay. 32M ( 1st ascent gives this 10c, I feel like it is 10b)
Pitch 3) 10a/b,( the FA team gives it a 10b, we thought it is 10a) 2 bolts protect a thin groove to great finger to hands crack, head for tree, big flake up to belay. 33M
Belay leader up through woods while pulling on fixed line to ledge.
Pitch 4) 10d, The mega 70m crack of Liquid Gold. I was running out of gear and energy so belayed at about 40m on a big foothold with 2 cracks for pro, this left some hard crack moves for the next 30m lead.
We did the standard walk off to fixed rope by Yellow Lab.
If that is very wet, I have also rapped the slab to the north side of this slot, 2 raps with single 60m rope.