Type: Trad, 185 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Aaron Kristiansen, Luke Cormier, 2012
Page Views: 2,114 total · 35/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Jun 25, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

This is a variation to the Liquid Gold route.
If Half Moon chimney is wet or you are not into the run out slab you can do this excellent variation.

Pitch 1) LG 10c/d shallow LFC, gradually gets harder as you go up till you are trying to fiddle in some small cams as you come around the crescent overlaps toward the anchor. There is some bigger cam placements out right and dyke holds up high. The bolted anchor is out left, and the original LG bolt and traverse goes right toward the big corner.30M

Pitch 2) 10c, head for 2 bolt traverse across dyke holds, fun moves and get on hand crack, keep going into RFC and layback up to ramps and easy cracks to bolted belay. 32M ( 1st ascent gives this 10c, I feel like it is 10b)

Pitch 3) 10a/b,( the FA team gives it a 10b, we thought it is 10a) 2 bolts protect a thin groove to great finger to hands crack, head for tree, big flake up to belay. 33M

Belay leader up through woods while pulling on fixed line to ledge.

Pitch 4) 10d, The mega 70m crack of Liquid Gold. I was running out of gear and energy so belayed at about 40m on a big foothold with 2 cracks for pro, this left some hard crack moves for the next 30m lead.

Location

After you pass Bulletheads East going north up the hill this is the next clean corner with a big dirt base area.
We did the standard walk off to fixed rope by Yellow Lab.
If that is very wet, I have also rapped the slab to the north side of this slot, 2 raps with single 60m rope.

Protection

Double rack to 3", with extra in the finger size, and many nuts work well too. Bolted anchors.We had planned to do half moon chimney so had a #4 and #5 Camalot. I used the #4 below roof in middle of last pitch, but a #3 works there too.

Photos

Jessica T
seattle, wa
  5.10d
Jessica T   seattle, wa
  5.10d
Topo available here: quickdrawpublications.com/w… Jul 29, 2014
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
  5.10
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
  5.10
Surprised this route has so few comments. Great route! My favorite of this trip to Squamish. Highly recommended if you are leading mid 5.10 solidly.

All pitches are good. Multiple 5.10 cruxes/sections and good variety. Top pitch is continuously steep but felt generally quite secure (to me) with lots of great hand jams and rests between creative jamming, stemming laybacking etc. Stellar pitch!

Pro seemed good enough, though some a bit fiddly, and some sections felt pretty committing. There were a few sections where it felt better to double up on placements and run it out a little through the difficulties to the next rest instead of hanging out to place mid sequence. I found a lot of excellent medium to large nut and offset nut placements where cams would be hard to fit into odd flares etc. We had 4-5 quickdraws and 7-8 runners, I'd leave the QDs next time and take 15-16 runners. Jul 15, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
Mountain hick,I almost wrote mountainchick, my guess is that Canadians don't really embrace MP. Also it is a variation to the older Liquid Gold, sharing the best 1st and last pitch. Jul 16, 2015
rocknice2
Montreal, Quebec
  5.10d
rocknice2   Montreal, Quebec
  5.10d
Double rack from .3-#3. Triples in .4-.75 Camalot.
First pitch felt kinda spicy up to the overlaps and the moving leftward to the anchor. 10+ (a bit PG)
Second pitch has technical face past two bolts. Then a committing layback. The rest is pretty easy. 10c.
Third pitch passes 2 bolts of the belay (crux) then fun finger and hand crack to trees. 10b.
Last pitch has it all, fingers, hands, a little bit of fist and for good measure some quick lieback. There is tons of gear just make sure you have enough.

We rappelled Bullethead East. Jul 28, 2015
Nick Armbruster
Squamish, BC
Nick Armbruster   Squamish, BC
Awesome route!

Climbed it in the current mid 30's heatwave, SPICY!!!

P1: fairly straightforward climbing leads to a committing crux protected by a .2. after pulling the crux traverse along a dykey section. easy moves, but a tad scary due to the marginal gear and pendulum potential. .10b/c.

P2. Continue along the dykey traverse and up into a shallow corner. Make an insecure lay back move onto a big block. Exhale relief to the fact you didn't slip a foot and ramble up right to the belay. The crux is harder than the first pitch crux. Definitely .10c.

P3. Insecure moves in a seam protected by bolts eventually turn into a beautiful crack. climb the crack past the tree and lay back up the wide flake to a big ledge. .10b/c, the crux is the seam off the belay.

P4/5. The big one!! my partner and I broke this up into two pitches. This is definitely a workout of a pitch, sustained, committing moves with multiple cruces throughout. Bring a full sleeve of tricks and a shaker full of pre-workout supplement for before you start up. All the gear was great, and you can build a belay in a ton of places depending on how uncomfortable you feel like being. To stay in line with the rest of the climb and squamish in general this pitch definitely deserves an .11a grade, and to me even a hard one at that. albeit different style, my partner and I both agreed this pitch was harder than pitches like the sword, milk road, rutabaga etc. Jul 29, 2018
Devin Bishop
  5.10c/d
Devin Bishop  
  5.10c/d
Fun route, but not a 100 classic IMHO. Also, after climbing both routes on back to back days, the 4th/5th pitch of Krimo/Liquid Gold is nowhere near as hard as The Sword or Perry’s Layback on The Grand Wall. At most I would call it 5.10c/d. Actually, every pitch on Krimo felt like 10c, just in different ways - some short and cruxy, some long and endurance based. But 5.11? Come on! Aug 15, 2018
Matt Insley
  5.10c
Matt Insley  
  5.10c
Just as a heads up, there's a raven's nest with new-born baby ravens on top of pitch one on Liquid Gold. Due to the proximity of these two routes you will probably want to stay away from both Krimo Gold and Liquid Gold. Apr 28, 2019 · Temporary Report