Type: Trad, 185 ft (56 m), 4 pitches
FA: Aaron Kristiansen, Luke Cormier, 2012
Page Views: 2,977 total · 39/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Jun 25, 2014
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


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Description

This is a variation to the Liquid Gold route.
If Half Moon chimney is wet or you are not into the run out slab you can do this excellent variation.

Pitch 1) LG 10c/d shallow LFC, gradually gets harder as you go up till you are trying to fiddle in some small cams as you come around the crescent overlaps toward the anchor. There is some bigger cam placements out right and dyke holds up high. The bolted anchor is out left, and the original LG bolt and traverse goes right toward the big corner.30M

Pitch 2) 10c, head for 2 bolt traverse across dyke holds, fun moves and get on hand crack, keep going into RFC and layback up to ramps and easy cracks to bolted belay. 32M ( 1st ascent gives this 10c, I feel like it is 10b)

Pitch 3) 10a/b,( the FA team gives it a 10b, we thought it is 10a) 2 bolts protect a thin groove to great finger to hands crack, head for tree, big flake up to belay. 33M

Belay leader up through woods while pulling on fixed line to ledge.

Pitch 4) 10d, The mega 70m crack of Liquid Gold. I was running out of gear and energy so belayed at about 40m on a big foothold with 2 cracks for pro, this left some hard crack moves for the next 30m lead.

Location

After you pass Bulletheads East going north up the hill this is the next clean corner with a big dirt base area.
We did the standard walk off to fixed rope by Yellow Lab.
If that is very wet, I have also rapped the slab to the north side of this slot, 2 raps with single 60m rope.

Protection

Double rack to 3", with extra in the finger size, and many nuts work well too. Bolted anchors.We had planned to do half moon chimney so had a #4 and #5 Camalot. I used the #4 below roof in middle of last pitch, but a #3 works there too.

Photos