Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Rich Aschert
Page Views: 720 total · 7/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Feb 26, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

This is a fun climb on mostly good rock that is fairly thin & powerful for the grade.

Begin with an easy mantle onto a spooky perched block above the low ledge (careful not to pull this block off the ledge). Hike up several more tiered ledges and precarious blocks to a stance below the clean wall. Make sure your belayer is watching as you step onto the instantly cruxy panel. A sustained section of sequential pockets & crimps leads past several bolts to a horizontal break. Cruise easier spikey rock to the anchor.

Location

10' left of the shared start of "New Ethics" & "Midget Toss", begin directly behind the 15' juniper pine south of the trail.

Protection

~7 bolts, 2BA. Stick clip recommended.

Photos

slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
The meat of this route is excellent, albeit really short. Unfortunately it is fairly high up, above a pile of nasty flakes. Between the natural sag in the rope (due to the big ledges), the height, and the ankle-breaking flakes, you will probably want a close belay. Dec 2, 2013
Nate Reno
Highlands Ranch, CO
 
Nate Reno   Highlands Ranch, CO
 
I'd give 1.5 stars, not as quite as good as New Ethics to the right.
I felt pretty comfortable w/o a stick clip on this one, getting to bolts 1 & 2 felt easy/secure. Like Slim says, you'll want an attentive belayer off the ledge as it's game on as soon as you step off, and the hard part of this climb is pretty good but short. Jan 12, 2014
Jesse Jakomait
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Jesse Jakomait   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I'll back up with Nate said. I'm not against stick clips, but don't pass this up if you don't have one. You can clip the 3rd bolt from the big ledge, and then after 2 hard moves just getting above the draw, there is a good pocket to clip the next bolt from. Stiff, thin climbing on tiny pockets and dime edges for feet will get you to the horizontal break. This won't be your first 12a! Dec 7, 2015