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The Usual Suspects
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.2 from 14
votes
Routes in B. Cactus Cliff Left (Muscle Beach & right)
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Afterburner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Blade Runner S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bur-Har-Bur S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Child's Play S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Christmas Tree S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Confusiasm S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dereliction Affliction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dihedrus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fiscal Cliff S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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French Are Here, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Good Red Road, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gravitations S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hey Pueblo Gringo, Got a Hanger? S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hot Beach S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hot Plastic Dog Shit TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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I'm Having A Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Just Thesenga It S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kalahari Sidewinder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kodachrome S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lats Don't Have Feelings S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Midget Toss S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mr. Fred T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Muscle Beach S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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New Ethics S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Red Giant T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Southern Belle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sweet Sam S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Third Stage S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thumbs Up S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tits Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Turkey's Bleak S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Under A Blood Red Wall S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Usual Suspects, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wadsworth Boulevard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 38.6318, -105.22196 |
| FA: | Richard Aschert, Bob D'Antonio & Vanio Kodas |
| Page Views: | 1,672 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Feb 26, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a fun climb on mostly good rock that is fairly thin & powerful for the grade.
Begin with an easy mantle onto a spooky perched block above the low ledge (careful not to pull this block off the ledge). Hike up several more tiered ledges and precarious blocks to a stance below the clean wall. Make sure your belayer is watching as you step onto the instantly cruxy panel. A sustained section of sequential pockets & crimps leads past several bolts to a horizontal break. Cruise easier spikey rock to the anchor.
Location
10' left of the shared start of "New Ethics" & "Midget Toss", begin directly behind the 15' juniper pine south of the trail.
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