Type: Sport, 430 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Bob Siegrist and Jennifer Vondungen, June 28, 2018
Page Views: 1,424 total · 122/month
Shared By: Bob Siegrist on Jul 2, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route begins with Riding with the Ravens and continues on for three more long pitches to the top of the Lower Great Face on Twin Sisters Peaks near Estes Park, Colorado. The four pitches are on solid rock with consistent face, overlap and bulge climbing, and comfortable belay stances with spectacular views. The four pitches include:

Pitch 1. Riding with the Ravens, 5.11, 95 feet, 12 bolts + 2 bolt anchor with chains (an alternate pitch 1 is G3, 5.11a).
Pitch 2. 5.11-, 115 feet, 17 bolts + a 2 bolt anchor with chains. (Note: about 35 feet into pitch 2, you will pass a 2-bolt anchor with chains, which is a rap station for the descent using a 60m rope.)
Pitch 3. 5.9+/5.10-, 90 feet, 10 bolts + a 2 bolt anchor with chains. (Note: about 10 feet up and left of the belay anchors for pitch 3 is a 2-bolt anchor with chains, which is a rap station for the descent using a 60m rope.)
Pitch 4. 5.9+/5.10-, 110 feet, 10 bolts + a 2 bolt anchor with chains.

Note: this is a new alpine sport route. It has been cleaned, and loose stones and rocks have been removed. However, as with any new route, during the early ascents, please be careful and mindful of what you grab and step on. Thanks!

Descent:

1. Walk off in 25 minutes.

From the top anchors, scramble 30 feet or so to the top where there is a nice broad area to relax in. From there, walk to the north along the ridge crest for 2 to 3 minutes passing 4 small trees, a vertical stick set in stones, and a survey pipe. Reach a broad area where an obvious, right traverse leads down to the talus via an obvious and easy path. Continue on down the left side of the talus and around Castaway Crag. Then traverse up and back to the base of Wizard's Gate.

2. Rap the route. With a 60m rope, there are 5 raps to the base via 2-bolt anchors with chains:
Rap 1 - 95 feet to rap anchors with chains about 10 feet above and left of the pitch 3 belay.
Rap 2 - 95 feet to the pitch 2 anchors with chains.
Rap 3 - 80 feet to rap anchors with chains about 35 feet above the pitch 1 belay.
Rap 4 - 35 feet to the pitch 1 anchors with chains.
Rap 5 - 95 feet to the ground.

With a 70m rope, the descent can be done with only 4 raps going from the pitch belay anchors.

Location

The route is located in the center of Wizard's Gate, a climbing zone on Twin Sisters Peaks near Estes Park, Colorado. The route begins with the established route, Riding with the Ravens, which is located in the left center of the main face at the Wizard's Gate.

Protection

The entire route is sport and protected with bolts and two-bolt anchors.

Photos