Type: Trad, Sport, 110 ft
FA: Jody Hawks
Page Views: 834 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Dec 19, 2013
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

This is a gem of a route that exemplifies the best that Unaweep can offer. The route gives you a bit of everything. The first third offers some steep climbing up a few devious holds. Gain a good rest and go up a shallow corner. The next few bolts navigate you through some great slab climbing and a high step on an awesome tooth jutting out of a rock band. The last quarter of the route follows easy terrain on gear to a ledge up and left. Excellent!

Location

100' right of the large boulder leaning against the clean wall which is the start to the 5.11 slab climbs. This is marked by a seam which pods open at about 15' high where a #4 Camalot fits nicely.

Protection

QDs, a single set below #2 Camalot. One #4 Camalot for the beginning.

Photos

Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
  5.12-
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
  5.12-
Climbing to the first of the good gear is quite heady. Upon close examination, two bolt holes were found of which the studs had been broken off of. At least one of these will be replaced next time up there. Until then, be careful! Dec 19, 2013
that emilio  
 
We replaced the first bolt, it would be nice to have that second one too, cause placing that first pro is still sketchy, but we climbed it like this. It's a super good route. Apr 28, 2017
Abram Herman
Grand Junction, CO
 
Abram Herman   Grand Junction, CO
 
The start is fun, would be more fun without the upper half though :) Nov 9, 2017