Elevation: 6,808 ft
GPS: 38.818, -108.601 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,050,101 total · 4,749/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Nov 25, 2001
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This area has excellent traditional crack climbing and great bouldering on the metamorphic granite/gniess canyon walls and large Dakota sandstone blocks of Unaweep Canyon half an hour from Grand Junction. The routes ascend canyon walls via cracks of all sizes and difficulties for up to nine pitches. Lines are clean and sustained; thousands of interesting options exist.

The potential for new routes seems limitless and many of the the existing routes feel like first ascents due to low traffic and the large absence of fixed gear. Bouldering is even more vast and varied. Roadside blocks of solid Dakota sandstone offer a lifetime of challenges on very interesting rock in a quiet setting. There are over 30 established cliffs in the canyon but many are on private property. Great care must be taken not to offend the residents and locals of Unaweep Canyon as much of the climbing access lies at their mercy.

The Sunday Wall and Hidden Valley Wall offer excellent routes and are located on Acess Fund property. The Mother Buttresses offer some of the best and longest climbs in the canyon and are also very deserving of a visit. Climbs can be selected for their exposure, so climbing in Unaweep is possible on almost any dry day.

This area is rich in climbing being close to The Black Canyon, Ouray, Colorado Monument, Redstone, etc.

There are a few bolted sport climbs in the area concentrated mostly on Sunday Wall, but for the most park, expect sustained crack climbing with the occasional run out. The cracks range from splitter hand cracks through steep faces to gaping offwidths, to desperate face moves so bring a good selection of traditional gear with a few extras depending on the climb. Long runners, RPs, and often times an offwidth piece are critical. Many routes have difficult route finding due to the numerous options. The rock can take a little getting used to. Many descents entail very involved walk-offs and down climbs. Don't expect much fixed gear, but some do have bolted rappel stations.

This is a beautiful and undisturbed part of Colorado and needs to be treated with the upmost respect. Do not leave trash, park on private property, chip anything, or be overly stupid. The Canyon is also an interesting geolocial formation because it has rivers flowing out of both sides. Unaweep means "canyon with two mounths" in Ute. Here one can feel the beauty of climbing.

Eds. Note, this large area has been reorganized since it covers 40 miles of terrain.

Getting There

Western Colorado, South of Grand Junction between Whitewater and Gateway along CO Hwy 141. From Boulder take I-70 West to Hwy 50 in Grand Junction towards Ouray (Delta, Montrose). Turn right on 141 and follow it into the Canyon. Bouldering is found on the hundreds of sandstone blocks visible from CO 141 on your way into the canyon. Sunday Wall and Hidden Valley are located on Access Fund property 2 miles West of Divide Road. Camping can be found on BLM land along Divide Road as well as along CO 141, Divide Road is cleaner and quieter but there is excellent bouldering along CO 141. Bring water.

2,444 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Unaweep Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V4 6B
 12
Crack Cave
Boulder
V5- 6C
 46
Mark of Zorro (aka Route 2)
Boulder
V6 7A
 32
Chinese Algebra
Boulder
V8 7B
 16
Route 5
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 59
Beginner's Luck
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 30
Dovercourt
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 56
Kibbles and Grits
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 48
Sun Dancer
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 70
True Grit
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 120
Sweet Sunday Serenade
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 39
No Name Route
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 25
Obe Won Canobe
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 31
Pocket Reference
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 21
Unknown Pillar
Trad, Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 43
Questions and Answers
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crack Cave Nine Mile Hill > Crack Hole Area > Crack Hole Boulder
 12
V4 6B Boulder
Mark of Zorro (aka Route 2) Nine Mile Hill > Bone Park Bould… > Plethora Boulder (Rig…
 46
V5- 6C Boulder
Chinese Algebra Nine Mile Hill > … > Mecca Area > Mecca Boulder
 32
V6 7A Boulder
Route 5 Nine Mile Hill > Bone Park Bould… > Plethora Boulder (Rig…
 16
V8 7B Boulder
Beginner's Luck Main Canyon: Un… > Access Fund Tra… > Sunday Wall
 59
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Dovercourt Main Canyon: Un… > Sun Towers
 30
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Kibbles and Grits Nine Mile Hill > Grit Wall
 56
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Sun Dancer Main Canyon: Un… > Access Fund Tra… > Sunday Wall
 48
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
True Grit Nine Mile Hill > Grit Wall
 70
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Sweet Sunday Serenade Main Canyon: Un… > Access Fund Tra… > Sunday Wall
 120
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
No Name Route Main Canyon: Un… > Mother's Buttress > Lower Mother's Buttress
 39
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Obe Won Canobe Main Canyon: Un… > Access Fund Tra… > Hidden Valley Wall
 25
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Pocket Reference Nine Mile Hill > Four Blocks Crag
 31
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Unknown Pillar Main Canyon: Un… > Access Fund Tra… > Sunday Wall
 21
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Questions and Answers Main Canyon: Un… > Mother's Buttress > Upper Mother's Buttress
 43
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
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