Elevation: 6,808 ft
GPS: 38.818, -108.601 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,547,199 total · 6,638/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Nov 25, 2001
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Jared LaVacque, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

This area has excellent traditional crack climbing and great bouldering on the metamorphic granite/gniess canyon walls and large Dakota sandstone blocks of Unaweep Canyon half an hour from Grand Junction. The routes ascend canyon walls via cracks of all sizes and difficulties for up to nine pitches. Lines are clean and sustained; thousands of interesting options exist.

The potential for new routes seems limitless and many of the the existing routes feel like first ascents due to low traffic and the large absence of fixed gear. Bouldering is even more vast and varied. Roadside blocks of solid Dakota sandstone offer a lifetime of challenges on very interesting rock in a quiet setting. There are over 30 established cliffs in the canyon but many are on private property. Great care must be taken not to offend the residents and locals of Unaweep Canyon as much of the climbing access lies at their mercy.

The Sunday Wall and Hidden Valley Wall offer excellent routes and are located on Acess Fund property. The Mother Buttresses offer some of the best and longest climbs in the canyon and are also very deserving of a visit. Climbs can be selected for their exposure, so climbing in Unaweep is possible on almost any dry day.

This area is rich in climbing being close to The Black Canyon, Ouray, Colorado Monument, Redstone, etc.

There are a few bolted sport climbs in the area concentrated mostly on Sunday Wall, but for the most park, expect sustained crack climbing with the occasional run out. The cracks range from splitter hand cracks through steep faces to gaping offwidths, to desperate face moves so bring a good selection of traditional gear with a few extras depending on the climb. Long runners, RPs, and often times an offwidth piece are critical. Many routes have difficult route finding due to the numerous options. The rock can take a little getting used to. Many descents entail very involved walk-offs and down climbs. Don't expect much fixed gear, but some do have bolted rappel stations.

This is a beautiful and undisturbed part of Colorado and needs to be treated with the upmost respect. Do not leave trash, park on private property, chip anything, or be overly stupid. The Canyon is also an interesting geolocial formation because it has rivers flowing out of both sides. Unaweep means "canyon with two mounths" in Ute. Here one can feel the beauty of climbing.

Eds. Note, this large area has been reorganized since it covers 40 miles of terrain.

Getting There

Western Colorado, South of Grand Junction between Whitewater and Gateway along CO Hwy 141. From Boulder take I-70 West to Hwy 50 in Grand Junction towards Ouray (Delta, Montrose). Turn right on 141 and follow it into the Canyon. Bouldering is found on the hundreds of sandstone blocks visible from CO 141 on your way into the canyon. Sunday Wall and Hidden Valley are located on Access Fund property 2 miles West of Divide Road. Camping can be found on BLM land along Divide Road as well as along CO 141, Divide Road is cleaner and quieter but there is excellent bouldering along CO 141. Bring water.

2,589 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Unaweep Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 17
Sage Truth
Boulder
V5- 6C
 62
Mark of Zorro (aka Route 2)
Boulder
V5 6C
 17
Punchdance
Boulder
V6 7A
 42
Chinese Algebra
Boulder
V8 7B
 27
Route 5
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 59
Beginner's Luck
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 31
Dovercourt
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 66
Kibbles and Grits
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 52
Sun Dancer
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 79
True Grit
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 141
Sweet Sunday Serenade
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 44
No Name Route
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 33
Obe Won Canobe
Trad 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 28
Unknown Pillar
Trad, Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 47
Questions and Answers
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sage Truth Nine Mile Hill > Dave Loves Donn… > Royal Rock
 17
V2 5+ Boulder
Mark of Zorro (aka Route 2) Nine Mile Hill > Bone Park Bould… > Plethora Boulder (Rig…
 62
V5- 6C Boulder
Punchdance Nine Mile Hill > … > W Triangle > Punchdance Boulder
 17
V5 6C Boulder
Chinese Algebra Nine Mile Hill > … > Mecca Area > Mecca Boulder
 42
V6 7A Boulder
Route 5 Nine Mile Hill > Bone Park Bould… > Plethora Boulder (Rig…
 27
V8 7B Boulder
Beginner's Luck Main Canyon: Un… > Access Fund Tra… > Sunday Wall
 59
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Dovercourt Main Canyon: Un… > Sun Towers
 31
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Kibbles and Grits Nine Mile Hill > Grit Wall
 66
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Sun Dancer Main Canyon: Un… > Access Fund Tra… > Sunday Wall
 52
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
True Grit Nine Mile Hill > Grit Wall
 79
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Sweet Sunday Serenade Main Canyon: Un… > Access Fund Tra… > Sunday Wall
 141
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
No Name Route Main Canyon: Un… > Mother's Buttress > Lower Mother's Buttress
 44
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Obe Won Canobe Main Canyon: Un… > Access Fund Tra… > Hidden Valley Wall
 33
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Unknown Pillar Main Canyon: Un… > Access Fund Tra… > Sunday Wall
 28
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Questions and Answers Main Canyon: Un… > Mother's Buttress > Upper Mother's Buttress
 47
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Unaweep Canyon »

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