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Routes in Hidden Valley Wall

Anasazi T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Beauty T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cliff Break Fern T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Don King Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Float Like a Butterfly T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gardensmith Bypass Shears T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla in Manilla T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hidden Valley Offwidth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Illusions T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Made In the Shade T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Never Ending Story T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Obe Won Canobe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Padawan T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quicksilver T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
So This is What Unclimbed Rock Looks Like? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Summer Solstice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking Wounded, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: KC Baum, Tom Archibeque, and Andrea Heath, 4/89
Page Views: 4,818 total, 37/month
Shared By: Matthew Seymour on Jan 19, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

P1: Climb up past a flake into a hand crack. Pass a short bulge and then place the crux protection in the offwidth above. Climb the offwidth (crux) and gain a nice hand/finger crack. Climb the crack to a ledge on the right and belay.

P2: Continue up the nice finger/hand crack system with some nice exposure to a large ledge. Pass by a tree, go left of it, with nice crack moves. Move up a chimney formed by the wall and a pillar. From the top of the pillar step across to a ledge and make a fun rightwards traverse to a ledge with a large roof above and belay.

P3: Pass the roof using small cams in the roof for protection and continue to the top with easy class 5.

Eds. Note, the above spelling is derived from the guidebook's spelling which is known to differ from the spelling from the movie series.

Location

Start just right of where the trail meets the wall in a crack with chockstones. The start is just left of where a large horizontal white dike meets the ground.

Protection

Standard trad rack: small pieces to large hand pieces. Plus 1 #4 Camalot for the crux.

Photos

gavi lightsey
Montrose CO
  5.9+
gavi lightsey   Montrose CO
  5.9+
After the first bit of offwidth, it is possible to tunnel in and place an extended #3 in the back to protect the second section of wideness. Sep 10, 2017
lenore sparks
Denver, Colorado
  5.10a
lenore sparks   Denver, Colorado
  5.10a
A #5 would have been comforting. May 21, 2017
Shep
Grand Junction, Colorado
Shep   Grand Junction, Colorado
I may just be super soft, but I would be terrified to have just one #4 cam for the crux. Even a #5 just barely protects the end of the crux. Like I said though, I may just be soft and bad at offwidths. Oct 16, 2016
Jeremy Werlin
  5.9+
Jeremy Werlin  
  5.9+
There are now rap chains at the top of pitch 1. A single 70m rope easily reaches the ground. A single 60m will come up maybe 15 feet short of the ground--beware! May 8, 2011
Alex Garhart  
 
This route can be done as 2 long pitches if you belay from the second large ledge after the exposed finger/hand crack. Aug 13, 2009