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Routes in Hidden Valley Wall

Anasazi T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Beauty T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cliff Break Fern T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Don King Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Float Like a Butterfly T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gardensmith Bypass Shears T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla in Manilla T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hidden Valley Offwidth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Illusions T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Made In the Shade T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Never Ending Story T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Obe Won Canobe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Padawan T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quicksilver T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
So This is What Unclimbed Rock Looks Like? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Summer Solstice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking Wounded, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 360 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Phil Persson & Rob Bauer
Page Views: 86 total, 1/month
Shared By: rob bauer on Oct 26, 2012
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The S-crack to the horizontal is a little chossy, but OK. Continue up the wide crack until you can step left to a handcrack, which continues to the top of the pinnacle (where we found a bail cord; unclear which side they came up). Anyhow, walk over to the mail wall and continue up the shallow, double cracks until it becomes a chimney and belay, about 150'.

P2: Continue up the right-leaning chimney until it squeezes you out onto a ledge. (You could belay here.) Continue up the easier cracks on the right side near the roof and then up the last corner to obvious easy ground (or you run out of rope? I used a 70m and had maybe 25 feet left). We scrambled the next 50 feet up and walked out to the left, following some cairns.

Both pitches had some good rock, a spicy move, and good adventure. There is loose stuff on ledges, and bring some long draws. Try it out and offer an opinion!

Location

This is at a distinctive, S-shaped crack, about 100 feet down from the large lower alcove. This is apparently the last route before you turn the corner heading east.

Protection

Standard rack, plus a #5 Camalot is nice. No bolts. Walk off.

Photos

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