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Routes in Hidden Valley Wall

Anasazi T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Beauty T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cliff Break Fern T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Don King Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Float Like a Butterfly T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gardensmith Bypass Shears T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla in Manilla T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hidden Valley Offwidth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Illusions T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Made In the Shade T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Never Ending Story T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Obe Won Canobe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Padawan T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quicksilver T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
So This is What Unclimbed Rock Looks Like? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Summer Solstice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking Wounded, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: KC Baum and Jody Hawkins 10/2/88
Page Views: 84 total, 1/month
Shared By: Matthew Seymour on Jun 7, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start up the black, stained face following a shallow, fractured, and flaring, crack system. There are two bolts near the bottom of the climb. Continue up the face protecting in the occasional slot that appears. Climb up to where the crack seams out. At this point, you stem upwards between the small, right-facing dihedral on the left and the seam on the right. Continue stemming until the dihedral ends and you can reach left to the top of a pillar and mantle to it. Finish with face and fingers to a large ledge with a two bolt anchor.

It is recommended that you move right and climb Acropolis, a beautiful, hand crack that starts at this level on the wall, as a second pitch.

The pro on this climb is interesting, safe, but interesting. I kind of wondered why the bottom, where the climbing wasn't that hard, had bolts, but the middle section, where the pro is more difficult does not.

Location

On Hidden Valley Wall there is a large drainage gully in between Obe Won Canobe and The Never Ending Story. There are several high quality climbs in the gully.

Black Beauty is on the left hand wall of the gully starting on a black, stained face, look for bolts.

Protection

Two bolts, small to medium nuts and cams. TCUs are very helpful. Ballnutz might work well on this climb.

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PTZ
Chicago/Colorado
 
PTZ   Chicago/Colorado
 
Great climb with great movement. I agree that the pro is tough on the middle of the climb. This is a great Toprope, if you don't want the pucker factor. Great second pitch hand crack. Worth getting on in any style you choose. Feb 28, 2012