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Routes in Hidden Valley Wall

Anasazi T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Beauty T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cliff Break Fern T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Don King Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Float Like a Butterfly T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gardensmith Bypass Shears T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla in Manilla T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hidden Valley Offwidth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Illusions T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Made In the Shade T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Never Ending Story T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Obe Won Canobe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Padawan T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quicksilver T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
So This is What Unclimbed Rock Looks Like? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Summer Solstice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking Wounded, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: KC Baum
Page Views: 137 total, 1/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Nov 14, 2001
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Hike past the Sunday and Fortress Walls and continue to the Hidden Valley Wall. Walk past a deep alcove near the center of the Wall and continue on for about 80 feet. Start in a right-facing dihedral where a white pegmatite dike meets the ground.

Pitch 1: Jam up a slightly bushy corner with good hands and stems to where it starts to flatten out. Continue up into a wide chimney and belay on a flat chockstone with slings, 5.8, 80 feet.

Pitch 2: Classic. Continue up the chimney for a short distance then pass a bulge to gain the nice hand crack above. Follow this crack straight up for about another 50 feet before reaching the crux bulge. Plug in good gear and pull through the bulge as the crack narrows and belay above on a good ledge. 5.10b, 150 feet.

Pitch 3: Continue straight up following the crack past a roof using hand and fist jams (two #3 Camalots useful). Pass the roof and continue via hand crack to easier ground and belay. 5.10, 75 feet.

Descent: Scramble up to flat ground atop the cliff and walk to the climbers left at the top of the route and contour along the rim. Downclimb 3rd class for 20 feet into the gully and locate 2 Metolius eye bolts. Rappel 180 feet to the ground or 165 feet to a ledge and down climb 15 feet of 3rd class.

Protection

Standard rack with 2 #3 Camalots or equivalent.
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
I thought for racking and other purposes the route was better done as P1 as stated, P2 as a 100'-110' pitch to a ledge, then P3 out left and then up through the last part of P2 and onward - more direct, less wide stuff needed, and better "flow" to the route.

In fact, I note that where we stopped on P2 there was a big blue runner back in the crack that implied what was once a fixed belay. Jul 8, 2013
The second pitch is stellar but is a bit fisty to only bring 2 #3 Camalots. I would bring a couple of #4 Friends and my partner wouldn't have minded a #4 Camalot for the last pich where she was hand stacking. The belay ledge is great but doesn't take nuts well, I used 2 yellow Aliens and a green. We had triples from #0.5 to #2 Camalot and doubles/singles in the small, and it worked pretty well on all the climbs we did, bring lots of slings! A. Everhart Jun 21, 2004
There is a fair amount of fist jamming but no actual offwidthing that I found...??

Apr 8, 2002
We have nicknamed this route the "Never Ending Offwidth", finding a little bigger than the "perfect hands" so often described. I guess if you reach in deep enough into the flaring cracks you will get a hand jam. Nice route, though. Apr 6, 2002