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Routes in Hidden Valley Wall

Anasazi T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Beauty T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cliff Break Fern T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Don King Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Float Like a Butterfly T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gardensmith Bypass Shears T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla in Manilla T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hidden Valley Offwidth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Illusions T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Made In the Shade T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Never Ending Story T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Obe Won Canobe T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Padawan T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quicksilver T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
So This is What Unclimbed Rock Looks Like? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Summer Solstice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walking Wounded, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft, Grade II
FA: KC Baum, Tom Archibeque, 6/10/1988
Page Views: 158 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jeremy Werlin on May 9, 2011
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

P1: Begin with stemming and hand/finger jams in a short shallow chimney. Continue up the hand/fist crack, milking stems and chimney moves until the pinnacle tops out and you have to commit to the fist crack (crux). Good crack climbing brings you to the top of a small pinnacle/ledge and 2 bolts with chains.

P2: Continue up (5.6-5.8) on any number of variations through less-than-stellar rock and teetering blocks to the top.

I would recommend missing the second pitch and rappelling on a single 60m from the chains at the top of P1.

This route has cleaned up nicely and has a lot of great climbing.

Location

Look for the big left-facing corner formed by a pinnacle, 25 feet south and downhill of Made In the Shade. Cliff Break Fern is almost directly opposite Luxor on the Fortress Wall.

Descent: Either rappel from the top of P1 with a single 60m or, if topping out, walk north to the top of the gully and hike down a faint climber's trail.

Protection

Small to 3.5. 2- #3 Camalots recommended. 2 bolts with chains at the top of P1.

Photos

I led the first pitch of this on 4-23-14. A really nice route. Too clean, straightforward and enjoyable to be a classic Unaweep climb. For bad climbers like me (fat and old - not skinny, young and good looking like you), it felt more like 5.8+/5.9- at the spot where K.C. Baum said you must commit to the crack. Fist jams get it done. Nice two bolt anchor at the top. 60 meter rope. Well worth the hike. Apr 24, 2014