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Illusions
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 12 votes
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | KC Baum, Andrea Heath, and Chris Monz, 3/8/89 |
Page Views: | 1,103 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Matthew Seymour on Jul 10, 2007 |
Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Pitch 1:
Start up a series of ledges with easy climbing, and a bit of bush whacking and gain the dihedral.
Start up the dihedral with a thin crack and some good ledges on the left hand wall. Move up to a stance below a flake on the right side. Protect with a finger sized cam. Then move up using laybacks, first one way followed by the other. Gain a small pocket in the crack and protect. Then finish with great fingers in the corner to a ledge with a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2:
Start from the right hand side of a belay ledge. Climb a good crack starting with fingers and moving up in size through hands until you reach a roof. Then move left around the roof to the top.
Descend via a double rope rappel from the center of the gully.
The first pitch can be climbed and and rappelled with with a 70m rope (just right). A 60m might work with a bit of easy down climbing.
Start up a series of ledges with easy climbing, and a bit of bush whacking and gain the dihedral.
Start up the dihedral with a thin crack and some good ledges on the left hand wall. Move up to a stance below a flake on the right side. Protect with a finger sized cam. Then move up using laybacks, first one way followed by the other. Gain a small pocket in the crack and protect. Then finish with great fingers in the corner to a ledge with a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2:
Start from the right hand side of a belay ledge. Climb a good crack starting with fingers and moving up in size through hands until you reach a roof. Then move left around the roof to the top.
Descend via a double rope rappel from the center of the gully.
The first pitch can be climbed and and rappelled with with a 70m rope (just right). A 60m might work with a bit of easy down climbing.
Location
This is located on the opposite side of the gully from Black Beauty. The route ascends a great looking, steep dihedral. It is also the fist dihedral right of the chimney in the back of the gully.
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