Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: KC Baum, Andrea Heath, and Chris Monz, 3/8/89
Page Views: 1,103 total · 5/month
Shared By: Matthew Seymour on Jul 10, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1:
Start up a series of ledges with easy climbing, and a bit of bush whacking and gain the dihedral.

Start up the dihedral with a thin crack and some good ledges on the left hand wall. Move up to a stance below a flake on the right side. Protect with a finger sized cam. Then move up using laybacks, first one way followed by the other. Gain a small pocket in the crack and protect. Then finish with great fingers in the corner to a ledge with a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2:
Start from the right hand side of a belay ledge. Climb a good crack starting with fingers and moving up in size through hands until you reach a roof. Then move left around the roof to the top.

Descend via a double rope rappel from the center of the gully.

The first pitch can be climbed and and rappelled with with a 70m rope (just right). A 60m might work with a bit of easy down climbing.

Location Suggest change

This is located on the opposite side of the gully from Black Beauty. The route ascends a great looking, steep dihedral. It is also the fist dihedral right of the chimney in the back of the gully.

Protection Suggest change

Nuts and small cams for the first pitch. I believe I placed two each from #5 down to #2 Metolius (ring locks down to tips).

A number 3 Metolius (or #0.5 Camalot) is essential crux protection.

Cams up through wide hands for the upper pitch.

Photos

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