Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,044 total · 23/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jan 5, 2008
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

This is an excellent problem that isn't over until one has fully rocked over onto the slab. Start sitting with your right hand on the obvious blocky hold and left hand on a large edge. Make a desperate first move up to a sloper or pocket and then move up to good pocket, hold the swing and continue straight up the face to the sloping lip. It may be wise to check out the top out and figure out what you can desperately crimp on before getting here on the send.

Location

This is route 5 in the east face Right Plethora picture.

Protection

A crash pad or two. The landing is excellent.

Photos

Conor Raney
Pinedale, WY
Conor Raney   Pinedale, WY
Dude. This sounds tight, someone should get a picture up, I'm dying to see this thing, man! Oct 19, 2009
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  V8
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  V8
Just about on-par with Cytogrinder as a V8. Powerful moves with a nice Texas Mantle exit. Dec 4, 2010
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  V8
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  V8
This actually does not use a (real) pocket. Start with left hand on sloping edge, with or without thumb-catch, and right on sloper/block. Fire up right hand to sloping two-finger sloper/pocket? (or intermediate to one of two small pockets, before the sloper/pocket). Then definitely use the small pocket/sloper with thumb catch. Move left hand to flat jug-edge and then set your feet and throw to the side-pull in the middle of the face and then fire for the lip and Texas mantle. See picture. Dec 15, 2010
Hoez
Uganda
  V6
Hoez   Uganda
  V6
Not V8.... Much easier. Aug 17, 2012
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  V8
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  V8
Not V10, much easier, probably V8. Climbs well, like a hip-hop purist, versus climbing like those who like ring-tone rap. Mar 22, 2013
Will Clark
Colorado Springs, CO
  V8
Will Clark   Colorado Springs, CO
  V8
Super fun climb! Don't fool yourself, it's a hard rockover! Not done until it's *done*. May 22, 2016
My personal opinion is that this problem flows even better from an even lower/deeper start. The right hand start is as described, and left hand starts way down on an undercling. The first move is going left hand to the sloping edge that is described below as the start hold. I have done it that way since 2000 because of the added quality (highly doubt I was the first). That doesn't change the grade (V7/8).
Going straight up from there is the classy problem described.

Alternate good finishes: traverse left as far as you want after hitting the jug, and top out at either of 2 opportunities, or just keep going left until you turn the corner - all 3 variations roughly around V8. Go right (V9/10) before the jug on crimps, then move to the pair of juggy crimps at which point you can opt for either of the well established V4/5 finishes. It may be contrived, but it's actually a beautiful line with great movement. Sep 12, 2018
Grant Eaton
Oxford, OH
 
Grant Eaton   Oxford, OH
 
Beta video: youtu.be/Ret3cShaM38. Nov 21, 2018