Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,018 total · 27/month
Shared By: Hoez on Jan 10, 2010
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

A classic sloper problem for the Nine Mile Hill.
Start low on the left side of the west face on a slopey, half-triangular hold. Figure out how to pull on it, and go out left onto the sloper rail. Heel hook and continue to slap up the rail with that left hand until you think you can stick that right hand on and contain it. Stick it and figure out a way to get up and over the bulge. As does with most sloper problems - temperatures can make or break you. Easier come winter time, harder in the heat of summer.

GRADE THIS PROBLEM PEOPLE!!!
Some say V5, most say it's V6.

Location

Chinese Algebra boulder.

Protection

None - great landing - not very high off the deck.

Photos

Matt Lisenby
  V5
Matt Lisenby  
  V5
If you are tall enough to reach the "good" area out to the right on the lip while your feet are on the initial holds, it's probably ~V5, but, if you have to commit to a heelhook and slopers on the lip to begin moving right, V6 is probably fair. There are a few finishing variations to this problem. Try mantling straight over from the first holds that you get to on the lip, avoiding the traverse right and the arete holds; it will be tough regardless of height. Jan 18, 2010
Grant Eaton
Oxford, OH
 
Grant Eaton   Oxford, OH
 
Beta video: youtu.be/p-fVucYLILY.
Great route. Nov 21, 2018
Maxwell Miner  
  V6
Had a great time working this the other day, here is the send footy: youtu.be/ivm9kIDceek.

Can’t wait to give the Dapper Dan line a proper session! Nov 24, 2018