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Routes in Sunday Wall

2-fer T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Antlers on a Sunday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arch Traverse S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bandito T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beginner's Luck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Dynamite T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bridge of Air T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Burnt Beautician T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Catch a Wave S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dike Arch T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dike Pinch T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Don Juan T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dreams of Far Away Places T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Echoes T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fearless First S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gargoyle T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
High Exposure T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Gone to Heaven S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Motion Fascination T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Napa Arete T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napa Valley T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Optical Illusions S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Overlap T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
People are Poodles Too. T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pillar 1 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pillar 2a T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Porticullis S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
R-Tree It T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Red Hangers T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Right of Trash Can Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Second Pillar S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silently Indirect T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Simple Mind S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Single Bolt Seam T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Smooth Reach T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Steeple, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sun Dancer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweet Sunday Serenade T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three's Company T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tree It T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Undocumented (Left of Bandito) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unknown Arete T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Pillar T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Reach T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0
Upper Deck 0.5 T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Upper Deck 1 T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C0
Upper Deck 2 T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wave, The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tom Stubbs and ... (not Andy Petefish)
Page Views: 13,328 total, 69/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Jan 9, 2002
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Sweet Sunday Serenade is a Unaweep classic. It consists of three good pitches on excellent rock. The climbing is not very difficult but highly enjoyable. The climb is located on the right hand side of Sunday Wall and starts in a left-facing dihedral with a right-leaning hand crack. Just to the climber's right of the route is Catch a Wave, a bolted 5.11 face climb that shares the same anchor as the first pitch on S.S.S.

Pitch 1: follow the crack up and right with a 5.8 move just off the ground, 135 feet to a bolted rappel anchor.

Pitch 2: climb obvious corner up and left from the anchor with fingers and face moves 5.9 for 75 feet to a good ledge with bolted rappel anchor.

Pitch 3: there are several options. The original line leaves from the West end of the large ledge above the belay and climbs a right-angling crack for 25 feet to a ledge below a large flake. Pass the flake, and climb a nice finger crack 5.9-. Near the top, traverse slightly right, and look for another bolted rappel anchor, 155 feet.

Descent: rappel with two ropes to the ground.

Protection

Standard rack to a #3 Camalot and two ropes.
Climbed this Saturday with the Sun Dancer finish. Great full value 5.9 climbing on the second pitch! We found a green C4 stuck right at the crux that looks like it will be there for a while and is potentially damaged. For those with the time and gumption, it would be nice to see that removed at some point as we couldn't get it with what we had. The Sun Dancer finish proved adventurous and made for an even more memorable day. 3+ stars, one of the best for the grade anywhere. Sep 28, 2015
Andy Petefish did not do the first ascent of this route. I know this for a fact. Andy did add the nice direct finish through the amazing pegmatite. I know for certain that Tom Stubbs did the first ascent of this climb, but I'm uncertain at this time with whom. At that time, it would have probably been with Fredrick L., Tom Blake, or Joe Kahlein (Scenic Joe, you probably know him and Ed Webster on the FA of the Scenic Cruise in the Black Canyon).

Back in the 1970s, the original route took the obvious, nasty, offwidth, hump fest off to the left at the top of the first two nice pitches.

The kicker here, many years later, is that KC Baum asked Tom Stubbs and Andy P. if he could claim the FA, since he had placed all the bolts on the route long after the FA had been done.

For passionate climbers, this is akin to asking if it is okay to sleep with your wife.

Hence the initial crack in the rift! Jan 12, 2017
Alexander Nees
Grand Junction, CO
  5.9
Alexander Nees   Grand Junction, CO
  5.9
Very nice, moderate, granite multi-pitch climb... a rare bird! Worth it for the second pitch alone, which would be a standout even in Yosemite. The route-finding on the third pitch is weird: I had trouble finding a direct line from the Sundeck to the "correct" 5.9 crack left of the main Sun Dancer dihedral, and wandered back and forth a lot. Also, there's an optional short thin finger crack at the top of the 3rd pitch, just right of the main crack, that offers the best 10 feet of climbing on the whole route, at maybe 10a? Sep 19, 2012
Kind of off topic, but after climbing, we went to go pump out on some boulders and ended up face to face with a black bear. So, be careful. They are not hibernating just yet. Dec 14, 2010
Chris Perkins
Buena Vista, Colorado
  5.9
Chris Perkins   Buena Vista, Colorado
  5.9
Is there a bolt on this route besides the anchors? I see it in the picture that describes the 2nd pitch var., but I never saw it. Route finding is tricky here. The way I read the book was the 3rd pitch took the left angling crack/flake with all the vegetation, but here it is described as the twin finger/hand cracks straight up. We took this cause it looked better. I thought this was Sun Dancer. Another party that was coming down thought the same thing and did the veggie var. May 10, 2006
Matt Chan
Boulder
  5.9
Matt Chan   Boulder
  5.9
THE multi-pitch route in the canyon at the 5.9 level. I second what Charles said about the "variation" on the P2 being the only apparent line. After climbing the initial ~50 feet of 5.9, the line moves slightly right and continues at the same level until reaching a pedestal below the rap bolts. I found P3 to be pretty sustained after the large flake. Lots of fingery steep climbing that eases off in the last 20 feet. I was gassed at the end of the pitch for sure.

Not really sure why Baum and Green call this a [grade] III in their books, it certainly wasn't because of the approach (which took 15 minutes). Also, two raps (one from the top and the second from atop P2) with 60m doubles will get you to the ramp just right of the start of P1 with a little downclimbing. Dunno. Jun 28, 2005
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
The "variation" is the only apparent climbable line that we could see off this ledge atop P1. It is superb steep climbing, and quite solid 5.9. We finished with the large excellent dihedral for P3 (Sun Dancer), for a combination worthy of three stars. Aug 15, 2002
FYI: The second pitch that I describe here is actually a variation and is considered a different route called "Satisfaction Guaranteed" in KC Baum's book. I do guarantee satisfaction and highly recommend this variation. Feb 18, 2002