Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Andy Petefish, et. al.
Page Views: 9,594 total · 62/month
Shared By: Matthew Seymour on Oct 28, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description

This is one of the best climbs in the canyon. It is steep, sustained, and has excellent exposure.

Pitch 1: 5.8, 120 feet. Start with a short lie back in a right-facing corner and gain good hands in the chimney. Continue up double cracks in the chimney with great jamming until you can exit right to a large ledge and belay.

Pitch 2: 5.10, 150 feet. To the right of the belay is a beautiful, smooth wall with double thin cracks leading up to a roof. Traverse out onto the face and climb the twin cracks, great climbing and jamming, protects well with small wires and cams. Reach the roof and traverse right utilizing an excellent, horizontal, hand crack, passing a useless bolt at your feet (stepping on it is cheating). Pull around the roof to an optional belay. Continue up the crack above that leads to a right-facing corner and belay on a small ledge.

Pitch 3: 5.10, 150 feet. Climb the excellent crack up the dihedral in smooth dike rock, ring locks through hands. Gain a stance below a roof in the gray rock and pass it with hands. Continue to the top and belay.

Descend to the right down the gully with two double rope raps from chockstones. Or down Doppelgänger which is 60 feet up canyon from the top out of Questions and Answers at a prow, below a large dead pinyon pine.

Location

This is one of the furthest routes to the right on Upper Mother's Buttress. Scramble a short distance up the drainage between Middle and Upper Mother's until you see a short, right-facing dihedral leading into a chimney with double hand cracks in the back.

Protection

Double set of cams to hands, and nuts.

Photos