Elevation: 7,194 ft
GPS: 38.814, -108.619 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 129,986 total · 889/month
Shared By: Matthew Seymour on Oct 15, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Jesse Zacher, Monomaniac, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Tyler KC, Jared LaVacque
Access Issue: Private Property borders Details

Description

The Mother's Buttress area was one of the first areas in the canyon to be developed, and with good reason. Excellent stone with continuous cracks, excellent solid face features, and steep unbroken rock make this area a true gem. The Mother's Buttress is broken into three main crags: Lower, Middle, and Upper Mother's Buttresses. A smaller crag, the Cave Buttress, is also accessed from the same approach, simply walk up and right once you reach the cliff.

Lower Mother's contains a great collection of single pitch cracks from 5.7 to 5.10, and is often a popular area for groups to set up top-ropes. The alcove on Middle Mother's contains the best collection of single pitch 5.11s in the canyon, with a few harder, and longer lines thrown in. Upper Mother's is home to a few classics including Questions and Answers, the undisputed classic multi-pitch in the canyon.

The majority of climbing on Mother's Buttress is on property that is currently owned by local climbers, but will soon be held by a climbing non-profit: the Western Colorado Climbers Coalition. Due to the way the property lines were drawn some climbs on the right side of Lower Mother's and all those on Cave Buttress are owned by another, and this parcel is currently for sale. Stay tuned for more developments.

As of July 2012, the WCCC with the help of volunteers, donations, and grants has been completed the Mother's Buttress project. A special thank you to the Petersons, who bought this property to keep it in climbers’ hands and subdivided it so the cliff side would be open to the public for future generations. The Access Fund also played a key role in this project.

Getting There

Drive 3.1 miles along CO-141 past the turn for divide road to a small pull out on the right side of the road.

There is a new trail that avoids private land that starts just left of the old trail. If you get the right trail you don't need to jump the fence, it is cut down between two of the posts.

Please park a couple feet back away from the edge of the gravel.

125 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mother's Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 63
Welcoming Party
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 36
Cow-a-Bunga
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 36
84.1% Eclipse of the Heart (The…
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
Black Bunny Rabbit
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 44
Mint Jam
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 37
Guide's Route
Trad 6 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 48
No Name Route
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 37
RSG
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 9
Pleasure Pillar Arete (AKA Facia…
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Large, Purple and Violent
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 49
Questions and Answers
Trad 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 11
Indirect Objects
Trad 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Jagged Edge
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
Doppelgänger
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 8
Iron Maiden
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Welcoming Party Lower Mother's Buttress
 63
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Cow-a-Bunga Lower Mother's Buttress
 36
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
84.1% Eclipse of the Heart… Other Mothers
 36
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Black Bunny Rabbit Other Mothers
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Mint Jam Lower Mother's Buttress
 44
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Guide's Route Lower Mother's Buttress
 37
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
No Name Route Lower Mother's Buttress
 48
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
RSG Other Mothers
 37
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pleasure Pillar Arete (AKA… Cave Buttress
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Large, Purple and Violent Outback
 12
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Questions and Answers Upper Mother's Buttress
 49
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Indirect Objects Middle Mother's
 11
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Jagged Edge Middle Mother's
 10
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Doppelgänger Upper Mother's Buttress
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Iron Maiden Middle Mother's
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mother's Buttress »

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