Elevation: 7,134 ft
GPS: 40.007, -105.406 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 182,572 total · 1,046/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details
Access Issue: Access now open Details

Description

North Boulder Creek flows down through Dream Canyon to Boulder Falls, where it merges with Boulder Creek.

The crags in Dream Canyon are split into two parts: Upper Dream Canyon and Lower Dream Canyon. The crags in Upper Dream Canyon are generally accessed from a parking area above the canyon, off of Sugarloaf Road.

The crags in Lower Dream Canyon are usually accessed from the Boulder Falls parking area. These crags can be accessed from the Upper Dream Canyon parking area, but this is not commonly done.

Probably, the most popular crag in Lower Dream Canyon is Plotinus Wall. It has a few old routes put up by Jim Erickson and others in the 1970s and 1980s, but it didn't gain prominence until the past few years, after Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas established many great sport routes there. Today, it is popular for climbers seeking 5.10 to 5.12 sport routes in a great setting.

Another popular crag in Lower Dream Canyon is the Wall of Winter Warmth It has some old trad routes from the 1970s, and some newer harder sport routes put up by D'Antonio and Kodas.

The Berlin Wall has some very difficult sport routes, and some older trad routes that are challenging and runout.

Most of the other crags in Lower Dream Canyon (Pin Dome, Nickel Dome, Krishna Spire, and Serenity Spire) have a few high-quality sport routes that are worth seeking out.

Chrome Dome, just upstream from Boulder Falls, was developed during the 1980s, before the advent of sport climbing. Most of the routes are runout and serious, and this rock sees little attention from modern climbers.

Getting There

From Boulder Canyon

From the intersection of Broadway and Colorado 119 in Boulder, follow Colorado 119 west towards the town of Nederland. About eight miles up the Canyon turn left into a large parking area for Boulder Falls.

From the Boulder Falls "trail" walk in on the 'tourist path' until you nearly come to a park bench. Switchback to the left between some caged rocks and a tree. Switchback again to the right on top of the rocks. Above you is a second set of caged rocks - pass these on the left (south) end, or climb over. From here, angle up and right on a faint path. There were some small cairns leading the way on 7/12/03. You are aiming for a small 'tunnel' near a dead tree that is, again, up and right from the caged rocks. Note, this access used to be frowned upon by non-climbing land managers.

Eds. during the months when Boulder Falls is CLOSED (Nov. 1 - May 1), some folks access skirting the right edge of Boulder Slips. It is not clear as to if this access is affected by the Boulder Falls closure.

Pass through the tunnel and hike steeply down the other side, heading to the water's edge, and follow a path upstream to a boulder jumble. The Plotinus Wall should be clearly visible uphill at 11:00, and the Wall of Winter Warmth at about 1:00, across the creek.

To get to Plotinus Wall, head up through the boulders to the bottom of the wall, just below the bolted slab, "The Scientist".

Universal Crusher is a small crag left of Plotinus and a short distance above the creek.

Chrome Dome, Nickel Dome, Pin Dome, Wall of Winter Warmth, Berlin Wall, Krishna, and Serenity Spire lie on the other side of the creek. Pick a good spot to wade across, and head up to the rock of your choice. The crossing may be difficult at times of high water (spring and early summer).

Per Katherine Kelly: the Boulder Climbing Community, working alongside OSMP, Boulder County and Forest Service has secured access to the Plotinus area.

Just before you arrive at Boulder Falls, the climber’s trail splits left through some talus and climbs uphill above the falls. You will notice a very small climber's access tag bolted to a rock. You will go up this way and then through the keyhole and down to access climbing. Access to Plotinus is provisionally granted for climbing access. It is still closed to the population at large.


From Upper Dream Canyon

Lower Dream Canyon crags can also be accessed from the Upper Dream Canyon parking area: Go left and down away from Upper Dream Canyon following the rock cairns heading in southerly direction. See the beta photo for trail choices to the different crags.

To get to Plotinus Wall: cross a small stream, and follow the cairns towards the Wall of Winter Warmth. Skirt the top of the wall, and drop down a gully towards the creek. Reach the creek, cross it, and go up the talus to Plotinus Wall. This is maybe 15 minutes of hiking.

113 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Dream Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 279
Mr. Sandman
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 43
Left Side
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 172
Snooze Button
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 186
Wake Up Call
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 169
Smell the Coffee
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 187
Napster
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 149
Chore Boy
Trad, Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 132
The Daily Grind
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 87
Golden Slumber
Trad, Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 212
The Scientist
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 165
Sleepless in Boulder
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 79
Tooth Fairy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 119
Boulder Quartz System
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 86
Lucky Strikes
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 142
Lucid Dreaming
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mr. Sandman Plotinus Wall > Left Side
 279
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Left Side Wall of Winter Warmth
 43
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Snooze Button Plotinus Wall > Left Side
 172
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Wake Up Call Plotinus Wall > Left Side
 186
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Smell the Coffee Plotinus Wall > Left Side
 169
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Napster Plotinus Wall > Left Side
 187
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chore Boy Plotinus Wall > Left Side
 149
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
The Daily Grind Plotinus Wall > Left Side
 132
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Golden Slumber Plotinus Wall > Left Side
 87
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
The Scientist Plotinus Wall > Middle
 212
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Sleepless in Boulder Plotinus Wall > Left Side
 165
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tooth Fairy Plotinus Wall > Left Side
 79
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Boulder Quartz System Plotinus Wall > Right Side
 119
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Lucky Strikes Plotinus Wall > Left Side
 86
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Lucid Dreaming Plotinus Wall > Middle
 142
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lower Dream Canyon »

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