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Elevation: 7,134 ft 2,174 m
GPS: 40.0069, -105.4058
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Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down
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Description Suggest change

North Boulder Creek flows down through Dream Canyon to Boulder Falls, where it merges with Boulder Creek.

The crags in Dream Canyon are split into two parts: Upper Dream Canyon and Lower Dream Canyon. The crags in Upper Dream Canyon are generally accessed from a parking area above the canyon, off of Sugarloaf Road.

The crags in Lower Dream Canyon are usually accessed from the Boulder Falls parking area. These crags can be accessed from the Upper Dream Canyon parking area, but this is not commonly done.

Probably, the most popular crag in Lower Dream Canyon is Plotinus Wall. It has a few old routes put up by Jim Erickson and others in the 1970s and 1980s, but it didn't gain prominence until the past few years, after Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas established many great sport routes there. Today, it is popular for climbers seeking 5.10 to 5.12 sport routes in a great setting.

Another popular crag in Lower Dream Canyon is the Wall of Winter Warmth It has some old trad routes from the 1970s, and some newer harder sport routes put up by D'Antonio and Kodas.

The Berlin Wall has some very difficult sport routes, and some older trad routes that are challenging and runout.

Most of the other crags in Lower Dream Canyon (Pin Dome, Nickel Dome, Krishna Spire, and Serenity Spire) have a few high-quality sport routes that are worth seeking out.

Chrome Dome, just upstream from Boulder Falls, was developed during the 1980s, before the advent of sport climbing. Most of the routes are runout and serious, and this rock sees little attention from modern climbers.

Getting There Suggest change

From Boulder Canyon

From the intersection of Broadway and Colorado 119 in Boulder, follow Colorado 119 west towards the town of Nederland. About eight miles up the Canyon turn left into a large parking area for Boulder Falls.

From the Boulder Falls "trail" walk in on the 'tourist path' until you nearly come to a park bench. Switchback to the left between some caged rocks and a tree. Switchback again to the right on top of the rocks. Above you is a second set of caged rocks - pass these on the left (south) end, or climb over. From here, angle up and right on a faint path. There were some small cairns leading the way on 7/12/03. You are aiming for a small 'tunnel' near a dead tree that is, again, up and right from the caged rocks. Note, this access used to be frowned upon by non-climbing land managers.

Eds. during the months when Boulder Falls is CLOSED (Nov. 1 - May 1), some folks access skirting the right edge of Boulder Slips. It is not clear as to if this access is affected by the Boulder Falls closure.

Pass through the tunnel and hike steeply down the other side, heading to the water's edge, and follow a path upstream to a boulder jumble. The Plotinus Wall should be clearly visible uphill at 11:00, and the Wall of Winter Warmth at about 1:00, across the creek.

To get to Plotinus Wall, head up through the boulders to the bottom of the wall, just below the bolted slab, "The Scientist".

Universal Crusher is a small crag left of Plotinus and a short distance above the creek.

Chrome Dome, Nickel Dome, Pin Dome, Wall of Winter Warmth, Berlin Wall, Krishna, and Serenity Spire lie on the other side of the creek. Pick a good spot to wade across, and head up to the rock of your choice. The crossing may be difficult at times of high water (spring and early summer).

Per Katherine Kelly: the Boulder Climbing Community, working alongside OSMP, Boulder County and Forest Service has secured access to the Plotinus area.

Just before you arrive at Boulder Falls, the climber’s trail splits left through some talus and climbs uphill above the falls. You will notice a very small climber's access tag bolted to a rock. You will go up this way and then through the keyhole and down to access climbing. Access to Plotinus is provisionally granted for climbing access. It is still closed to the population at large.


From Upper Dream Canyon

Lower Dream Canyon crags can also be accessed from the Upper Dream Canyon parking area: Go left and down away from Upper Dream Canyon following the rock cairns heading in southerly direction. See the beta photo for trail choices to the different crags.

To get to Plotinus Wall: cross a small stream, and follow the cairns towards the Wall of Winter Warmth. Skirt the top of the wall, and drop down a gully towards the creek. Reach the creek, cross it, and go up the talus to Plotinus Wall. This is maybe 15 minutes of hiking.

115 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Dream Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V10-11 8A
 23
The Amendment
Boulder
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 427
Mr. Sandman
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 253
Snooze Button
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 236
Chore Boy
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 16
Bobby's Wall
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 322
The Scientist
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 262
Sleepless in Boulder
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 204
Boulder Quartz System
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
Angle of Repose
Sport 2 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 169
Lucky Strikes
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 11
Mordor
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 18
Interrogation
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 187
Lucid Dreaming
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 7
Big Sky Corner
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Bed Hog
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Amendment Freedom Boulder
 23
V10-11 8A Boulder
Mr. Sandman Plotinus Wall > Left Side
 427
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Snooze Button Plotinus Wall > Left Side
 253
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Chore Boy Plotinus Wall > Left Side
 236
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Bobby's Wall Krishna & Serenity Spire
 16
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Scientist Plotinus Wall > Middle
 322
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Sleepless in Boulder Plotinus Wall > Left Side
 262
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Boulder Quartz System Plotinus Wall > Right Side
 204
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Angle of Repose Wall of Winter Warmth
 18
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Lucky Strikes Plotinus Wall > Left Side
 169
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Mordor Wall of Winter Warmth
 11
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Interrogation Berlin Wall
 18
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Lucid Dreaming Plotinus Wall > Middle
 187
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Big Sky Corner Pin Dome
 7
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Bed Hog Wall of Winter Warmth
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Lower Dream Canyon »

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