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Routes in Wall of Winter Warmth

Alpha-Bob S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Angle of Repose S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bed Hog T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Closed Open Space T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct Cop Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Escutcheon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leader of the Pack T,S,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Left Side T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mini Moe T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Mordor T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
On The Bough S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Prisoner, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Regular Route [WWW] T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slit, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Titleist (aka The Alicia Golembeski Memorial Route), The T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas
Page Views: 2,163 total, 12/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Aug 6, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This spectacular route starts just left of the end of the first pitch of Left Side (page 115, route 17 in Rossiter's guide) on the Wall of Winter Warmth. Access the start by climbing the first pitch of Left Side or hike down a steep gully from the top of the rock just above the Berlin Wall. A new two-bolt anchor has been placed at the start for a better and safer belay.

Pitch 1: Follow a line of bolts up a steep wall. The first moves off the ground are the crux (lunge) and lead to steep, continuous climbing up past a "tooth" to good holds and the end of the first pitch.

Pitch 2: The repose pitch! Climb up on good holds to a small overlap. Crank past the overlap making technical moves into a shallow corner. Stem up the corner moving left on extremely thin holds (crux) into another shallow corner. Make hard layback moves up into a shallow corner over a steep section that leads to a good rest. Follow bolts up to the anchors on great holds with spectacular exposure to the anchor.

Rap the route to the ground. This is a great climb in a beautiful position high above Boulder Creek. I think it is one of the best sport climbs in Boulder Canyon.

Protection

Seven bolts to a two-bolt anchor for the first pitch. Twelve bolts to a two-bolt anchor for the second pitch. Carrying twenty-two quickdraws if you do the route in one-pitch.

Photos

Steve Annecone
boulder
Steve Annecone   boulder
In contrast to the comment by J. Albers above, I suspect that most local climbers are NOT at all in agreement with bolting next to established lines, and especially run out classics like Left Side. Actions like this are generally considered tasteless and not OK.

Many routes done in Boulder Canyon are offensive to many climbers, including bolting next to excellent cracks or other good natural protection, bolting too close to established lines, and chipping and gluing holds. Fortunately, places like Eldorado Canyon and the Flatirons have bolt review committees that engage the public and confirm that the community interests are well-served. It would be nice if climbers could organize and get involved with community oversight of new routes in Boulder Canyon, to help keep things reasonable and in the consensus of the community. Jun 19, 2016
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
^^^^
How about you ask the community before you unilaterally start removing bolts? How much do you want to bet that the majority of the community wants you to refrain from touching AoR at all? This route has been up for over fifteen years and is by and large considered a classic route, and then all of a sudden you -- who was less than ten years old when it was put up -- has decided that they need to "fix" this terrible wrong. Really? Please leave the route as is.

And just FYI, I am guessing that nobody is going to give you Bob D's contact info. Wanna know why? I'll let you in on a little secret....Bob removed himself from the website years ago because of conflicts like the one you are inevitably starting here in the comments section of AoR. Seriously, I am not trying to belittle you because of your age, but perhaps give a little thought to the possibility that other more senior people in the community have considered the value (or lack thereof) of the bolts on AoR and decided to leave it alone. In other words, perhaps you should defer to the judgement of folks who have been around a bit longer instead of assuming that your judgement is novel, justified, and appreciated. Jun 17, 2016
michalm
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
Does anybody have contact information for Bob D'Antonio? I would like to have a chat with him about his first ascents and about the bolts on Angle of Repose that overlap with Left Side. I am confused as to why a bolted route was put up which obviously crosses a well-traveled traditional route, and would like to discuss options for restoring Left Side to a more fitting state. I have a hard time considering a route which shares rock with another older route a legitimate first ascent but would like to give due consideration to Bob before taking action, even if I disagree with his tactics. Your help is appreciated. Jun 17, 2016
I agree with Drew's comments. We'd been challenged by the classic Left Side, with its devious moves and relatively sparse pro, when all of a sudden I ran into bolts, so close I could clip them from the crack feature I was working my way up, around the middle of the 3rd pitch. Very weak to have a bolted sport route force its way right into a tricky section of a good trad route. Not only these two bolts next to the crack but also the anchor bolts, which totally change the character of that part of Left Side.
Disappointing. Feb 17, 2013
Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
I've climbed the 1st pitch and the dyno is slightly Sharma-esque. 5' leap to a glued on jug... total Hollywood move! good luck....
I'm very disappointed where the anchors were placed on top of the 2nd pitch. The 2-bolt anchor has DEFACED! the classic 3rd pitch of the "LEFT SIDE" route. The 3rd pitch of the "Left Side" climbs that airy traverse above the lip of the huge roof and up an awesome 5.9 crack. At the top of the 5.9 crack, used to be a heady friction move, to gain the roof above where you can get gear to continue to the top. NOW, at the top of the crack there are 2 bolts right in front of your face. Instead of leaving the crack, with a nut below your feet, and smearing moves to the roof... There has been 2 bolts thoughtlessly placed in the middle of a CLASSIC ROUTE. I know Boulder Canyon is a great place for thoughtlessly placed bolts and I should get over it BUT.......this is unacceptable! I wish people would think before they drill.... Oct 16, 2009
Ya like Wallace Stegner do ya? Mar 26, 2005
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
 
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
 
Great route. Angle of Repose is an excellent descriptor for the moves on the 2nd pitch. Not many hand-holds on that pitch -- when you get a 1/4 inch edge it feels like a jug.

We did a (new?) bolted route as the approach pitch that starts at the big pine tree to the right of the 5.9 slot. Climb past 4 bolts and then traverse up and left towards the base of Angle of Repose. You can also sling a horn midway so that you can do the approach pitch with no gear. May 7, 2004
Joe Collins
  5.12a
Joe Collins  
  5.12a
Pretty nice climb. Its on the west face, so it not as warm as you might hope given the formation's name. The two pitches are very different in character... the first, steep and juggy, with the second, slabby with friction being key. V3? dyno to start the first pitch. I thought overall, the second pitch was unquestionably harder than the first, especially with the fact that the two cruxy sections involve friction on quite flakey/licheny rock.Weird moves. Solid 12a, I thought, though with some more cleaning the friction might be more reasonable. Watch the ends of your rope if you rap from the top of P2 to base of P1, and also on the rap down to the ledges at the base. Small rack of cams with a #1 and #2 Camalot for the 5.9 approach slot. Mar 12, 2004
We accessed this route by climbing the Berlin Wall (Fall of the Wall), and then downclimbing the gully to the start. There is a two bolt anchor setup above 'fall of the wall' for rappells back down (need slings replaced.) Great route, although a little crumbly. Have your belayer wear sunglasses. Aug 1, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
While P1 and P2 are quite different in character, I'd agree with rating them at about the same level, about 5.12a. Sep 30, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
If there was a Pulitzer Prize for routes, I'd nominate Bob D'Antonio for finding things that are classic in ground already well traveled. Now with that preface, I'd have to say that Angle of Repose, while a very interesting route, is also one of the weirdest routes in Boulder Canyon. On the one hand, it is very appealing because over its three pitches it seems to be going somewhere - a bit unusual for a sport route. On the other hand, it has some pretty weird sequences.

The approach is the trad line "The Slot" which at 5.9 seemed stout for the grade, and it needs a double bolt anchor at the lower ledge for rappel purposes. Angle of Repose proper begins from a double-bolt stance at the top of The Slot and above a stunningly loose and cobble-filled slot. This is a warning to be careful!!

P1 of Angle of Repose starts with a nice ballistic dyno to a very sharp edge that has been glued back in place (N.B. we filed off the sharpest part of the edge). This is followed by a reachy gaston and some pumpy moves in largely juggy, interesting terrain. Cop a rest between moves and this comes together nicely.

P2 is the weirdness. It took a bit to suss out the beta, shortly after the start, which is a tad inobvious, and I won't give it away. Things got a bit weird again somewhere near the 30' mark where we went up to a clip and then dropped back down for half a dozen feet to set up a traverse left on disappearing feet that coupled with a totter onto a good fin. Swim up the small fin to a nearly invisible jug and pull into a shallow corner for the route's only significant runout. And it's all 5.7 after that.

I'd go with three stars (two for the route, one for the weirdness) as well. Good solid rock, although it needs some serious flake removal, nicely designed pro, and a killer setting. The unusual hangers look as though you could rap from almost any point without fear of trashing the rope. The slightly surrealistic turrets at the top add to the line's appeal. Kudos to Bob and Vaino. Sep 29, 2002