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Access Issue: Access Closed Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This particular rock is 1-2 pitches in length and has perhaps a dozen lines which date back at least to the 1980s. There are mixed bolt/naturally protected lines here, but they tend to be runout for the average climber. Dan Hare, a prolific local climber, has developed most, if not all, of the lines here. This entry was made to help organize the Lower Dream Canyon section.

Apparently, there are routes including Steel Blue 5.11 R and Acrophobia 5.10 X done on the early eighties by Dan Hare et al. here.

Note, the back side of this rock is also known as Lower Boulder Falls.

Descent: scramble off left.

Getting There

You can refer to directions noted in the Lower Dream Canyon. There are 2 possible approaches:

1) Park at Boulder Falls, hike up to the hole up & left of the Falls, drop down to water level. There are single bolts set for an exciting Tyrolean but it may be best to climb during low water of fall, winter, or early spring when you can hop across on boulders or wade more manageable currents. Once you cross the stream, you go back towards the parking and hike up to the upper rock above Boulder Falls East (the rock on the opposite side from the tourist trail to the falls). This rock is split into upper & lower buttresses.

2) You can approach this from below by getting to the opposite side of the stream below the falls. You can hike/scramble/climb up and around the right side of Boulder Falls East (see above) to gain access to the rock up & right . Be careful if you choose this approach. See approach info for Lower Boulder Falls.

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Photos

There are some terrific (or terrorific) climbs here such as: Steel Blue 5.11c R and Acrophobia 5.10c X done on the early eighties by Dan Hare et al., w/o crowds and naked sunbathing coeds!! Apr 20, 2003
  • *IMPORTANT ACCESS INFO**

This is crag is a mix of private and public lands, but mostly private. No trespassing signs are posted in several places near the base. Nov 13, 2008
For some reason we chose to lead Cold-Rolled Steel the other day, and that was exciting! Kind of dirty and lots of lichen right now, but pretty cool slab climb. Way stiffer than other climbs of the grade I've climbed lately in Boulder Canyon. May 9, 2011

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