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Routes in Berlin Wall

Blitzkreig T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Checkpoint Bravo S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dachau S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
East Germany S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Eastern Promises S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Fall of the Wall S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Interrogation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Irrigation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Walpurgisnacht S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Waterboarding S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Access Issue: Access Closed Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This particular rock is sometimes considered part of the Wall of Winter Warmth (WWW). It lies in a nook just left of WWW & right of Krishna. The older routes (put up in the 1980s) tend to be runout and steep; the recent sport routes are well protected. This entry was done to help with organization of the Lower Dream Canyon section.

Descent: Rappel 90' from the top and then downclimb the approach gully. The newer sport routes all have lowering/rap anchors.

L->R:

A. Walpurgisnacht, 11-, 1p, 80', bolt & gear.
B. Dachau, 11- or 11+, 70', retrobolts, originally 1 bolt & gear.
C. Iron Curtain, 10+, 1p.
D1. Fall of the Wall, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
D2. East Germany, 13, 1p, 90', bolts.
E? Stalingrad, 11 X.
E2? Waterboarding, 12, 1p, 90', bolts.
F. Interrogation, 12+, 1p, 80', bolts.
G. Eastern Promises, 13, 1p, 75', bolts.
H. Blitkrieg, 11 R, bolt & gear.
I. Weinachtsfest, 11 R, gear.
J. Himmelbruch, 10+ R, gear.
K. Checkpoint Charlie, 10-, gear.

Getting There

Best to refer to directions noted in Lower Dream Canyon. Park at Boulder Falls, hike up to the hole up & L of the Falls, drop down to water level. There are single bolts set for an exciting Tyrolean but it may be best to climb during low water of fall, winter, or early spring when you can hop across on boulders or wade more manageable currents. Then you can approach this via a 5th-class gully.

It may be possible to approach this buttress from Upper Dream Canyon.

Per topher donahue: there is now a 2 bolt rap anchor for the approach gully. Scramble 50 feet down gully (30 feet below the old single bolt rap anchor), and traverse a big ledge to the east to an anchor. A 60m rope just reaches easy ledges, but be sure to knot the end of the rope.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Berlin Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Walpurgisnacht
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 6
Fall of the Wall
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 11
Interrogation
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
East Germany
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 6
Eastern Promises
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Walpurgisnacht
 7
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Fall of the Wall
 6
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Interrogation
 11
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
East Germany
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Eastern Promises
 6
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
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Photos

It looks like this crag should be called Dan's Wall...for Dan Hare, who got there first like so many crags in Bo Can. And then for Dan L, for getting after all rest and making this a nice looking 21st century crag. Way to go! Nov 23, 2008
topher donahue
Nederland, CO
topher donahue   Nederland, CO
There is now a 2 bolt rap anchor for the approach gully. Scramble 50 feet down gully (30 feet below the old single bolt rap anchor), and traverse a big ledge to the east to an anchor. A 60m rope just reaches easy ledges, but be sure to knot the end of the rope. Feb 27, 2017

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