GPS: 40.008, -105.406 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 13,626 total · 71/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Nov 11, 2005 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Access now open Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2021 Update - reopening Details

Description

This particular rock is sometimes considered part of the Wall of Winter Warmth (WWW). It lies in a nook just left of WWW & right of Krishna. The older routes (put up in the 1980s) tend to be runout and steep; the recent sport routes are well protected. This entry was done to help with organization of the Lower Dream Canyon section.

Descent: rappel 90' from the top and then downclimb the approach gully. The newer sport routes all have lowering/rap anchors.

L->R:

A. Walpurgisnacht, 11-, 1p, 80', bolt & gear.

B. Dachau, 11- or 11+, 70', retrobolts, originally 1 bolt & gear.

C. Iron Curtain, 10+, 1p.

D1. Fall of the Wall, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.

D2. East Germany, 13, 1p, 90', bolts.

E? Stalingrad, 11 X.

E2? Waterboarding, 12, 1p, 90', bolts.

F. Interrogation, 12+, 1p, 80', bolts.

G. Eastern Promises, 13, 1p, 75', bolts.

H. Blitkrieg, 11 R, bolt & gear.

I. Weinachtsfest, 11 R, gear.

J. Himmelbruch, 10+ R, gear.

K. Checkpoint Bravo (AKA Himmelbruch), 10+, 1p, 75', bolts.

L. Checkpoint Charlie, 10, 1p, 75', gear.

Getting There

Best to refer to directions noted in Lower Dream Canyon. Park at Boulder Falls, hike up to the hole up & L of the Falls, drop down to water level. There are single bolts set for an exciting Tyrolean but it may be best to climb during low water of fall, winter, or early spring when you can hop across on boulders or wade more manageable currents. Then you can approach this via a 5th-class gully.

It may be possible to approach this buttress from Upper Dream Canyon.

Per topher donahue: there is now a 2 bolt rap anchor for the approach gully. Scramble 50 feet down gully (30 feet below the old single bolt rap anchor), and traverse a big ledge to the east to an anchor. A 60m rope just reaches easy ledges, but be sure to knot the end of the rope.

11 Total Climbs

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