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Elevation: 7,277 ft 2,218 m
GPS: 40.0073, -105.405
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 31,543 total · 135/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Nov 11, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Access closed due to rockfall by city DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This particular rock is likely the tallest in Lower Dream Canyon with lines up to 4 pitches in length. Some older routes dating back to at least the 1960s are mixed in with newer bolted lines from the 2000s. This granite is steep, featured, and devious in spots. There is still loose rock and plenty of guano in spots, so be careful! This entry was made to help organize the Lower Dream Canyon area.

Descent: You can rappel, you can scramble off to the R, or you can hike around to the R from the top (be careful of tourists & fisherpeople below). Loose in spots but improved over the years.

L->R:

Lowest buttress
A. Escutcheon, 10, 1p, gear.
B. Mini Moe, 2, 1p, gear.
C. Closed Open Space, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Alpha Bob, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Leader of The Pack, 11+, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.
F. The Slit, 9+, 1p, 100', gear.

Main buttress
G. On The Bough, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Angle of Repose, 12-, 2p, 180', bolts.
I. Left Side, 10-, 3p, 400'?, gear.
J. Cop Out, 9 R, 3p, gear.
K. Direct Cop Out, 10, 3p, gear & bolts.
L. The Titleist, 11-, 2p, 190', gear & bolts.
M. Right Side, 10-, 3p, gear.
NN. Mordor, 12, 2p, 150', bolts.
O. The Prisoner, 12-, 1p, gear.
P. Bed Hog, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.

QQ? Melons, 9, 1p, gear.

Getting There Suggest change

Refer to directions noted in the Lower Dream Canyon. Park at Boulder Falls, hike up to the hole up & L of the Falls, drop down to water level. There are single bolts set for an exciting Tyrolean but it may be best to climb during low water of fall, winter, or early spring when you can hop across on boulders or wade more manageable currents.

15 Total Climbs

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Location: Wall of Winter Warmth Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Wall of Winter Warmth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 22
The Slit
Trad, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 60
Left Side
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
Direct Cop Out
Trad 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
Angle of Repose
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Alpha-Bob
Sport, TR
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 11
Mordor
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Bed Hog
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Slit
 22
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Left Side
 60
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Direct Cop Out
 19
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Angle of Repose
 18
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Alpha-Bob
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
Mordor
 11
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Bed Hog
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad
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