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Routes in Wall of Winter Warmth

Alpha-Bob S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Angle of Repose S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bed Hog T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Closed Open Space T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct Cop Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Escutcheon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leader of the Pack T,S,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Left Side T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mini Moe T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Mordor T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
On The Bough S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Prisoner, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Regular Route [WWW] T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slit, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Titleist (aka The Alicia Golembeski Memorial Route), The T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
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Access Issue: Access Closed Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This particular rock is likely the tallest in Lower Dream Canyon with lines up to 4 pitches in length. Some older routes dating back to at least the 1960s are mixed in with newer bolted lines from the 2000s. This granite is steep, featured, and devious in spots. There is still loose rock and plenty of guano in spots, so be careful! This entry was made to help organize the Lower Dream Canyon area.

Descent: You can rappel, you can scramble off to the R, or you can hike around to the R from the top (be careful of tourists & fisherpeople below). Loose in spots but improved over the years.

L->R:

Lowest buttress
A. Escutcheon, 10, 1p, gear.
B. Mini Moe, 2, 1p, gear.
C. Closed Open Space, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Alpha Bob, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Leader of The Pack, 11+, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.
F. The Slit, 9+, 1p, 100', gear.

Main buttress
G. On The Bough, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Angle of Repose, 12-, 2p, 180', bolts.
I. Left Side, 10-, 3p, 400'?, gear.
J. Cop Out, 9 R, 3p, gear.
K. Direct Cop Out, 10, 3p, gear & bolts.
L. The Titleist, 11-, 2p, 190', gear & bolts.
M. Right Side, 10-, 3p, gear.
NN. Mordor, 12, 2p, 150', bolts.
O. The Prisoner, 12-, 1p, gear.
P. Bed Hog, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.

QQ? Melons, 9, 1p, gear.

Getting There

Refer to directions noted in the Lower Dream Canyon. Park at Boulder Falls, hike up to the hole up & L of the Falls, drop down to water level. There are single bolts set for an exciting Tyrolean but it may be best to climb during low water of fall, winter, or early spring when you can hop across on boulders or wade more manageable currents.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wall of Winter Warmth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 37
Left Side
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 13
Direct Cop Out
Trad 3 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 7
Angle of Repose
Sport 2 pitches
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Mordor
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
Bed Hog
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Left Side
 37
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Direct Cop Out
 13
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Angle of Repose
 7
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Mordor
 7
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Bed Hog
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad
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