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Routes in Wall of Winter Warmth

Alpha-Bob S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Angle of Repose S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bed Hog T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Closed Open Space T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Direct Cop Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Escutcheon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leader of the Pack T,S,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Left Side T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mini Moe T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Mordor T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
On The Bough S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Prisoner, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Regular Route [WWW] T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slit, The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Titleist (aka The Alicia Golembeski Memorial Route), The T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P. Ament & P. Mayrose, early 1960s
Page Views: 145 total · 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Nov 9, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Access Closed Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is a route on the right side of the Wall of Winter Warmth which may attract folks seeking a moderate line up a nice chunk of rock. Perhaps, it would be better to choose a nicer line elsewhere. This is described in Rossiter's guide as an approach to Right Side. Hmmm. Loose, brushy, carmelized animal feces, unaesthetic, scratchy, flaky, too loose for pro in sections...adventure, at best. You can approach this via lower WWW pitches like Closed Open Space, Leader of the Pack, The Slit, or traversing in from the right on loose 3rd to 4th terrain from the descent gully off of WWW.

You can start with a belay off a large tree. Move up to a broken start to the dihedral. Note, the flakes are shattered here & a bit precarious, so be careful to avoid knocking these on your belayer or traverse right, go around the loosest section, traverse back into the dihedral. Go up. Get to a weird bulging section, walking up a #3 Camalot, traverse right through a bush, face climb up to a ledge. Here choose the easier left version with carmelized animal poop or move right into a licheny groove. Gain a belay with 2 bolts in a large, hopefully wedged, boulder. Continue up passing a few climbs on the left (Right Side, Mordor?, The Prisoner, etc.). Fire for the top along a steep ramp and dihedral.

Descend off right to the loosish gully.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 Camalot.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
P1 deserves a single star, but it has a swallow/woodrat problem (poo and urates). P2 is not worth climbing at all. Mar 5, 2017

More About Regular Route [WWW]

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