Avg: 3.3 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio|
|Page Views:||3,078 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Ron Olsen on Apr 13, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the land owner. Climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon are trespassing.
Per Dan Gozdz: I reached out to OSMP and received the following reply about access: yes, there is now a designated climbing access trail through Boulder Falls that follows the old footpath through the Keyhole. Enjoy!
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Pitch one: 5.10d Start 50 feet right of "Direct Route" on a ledge with several pine trees. Climb up a dog-leg crack (tricky start and gear) to a ledge. Follow a thin seam past two bolts up to a two-bolt-anchor.
Pitch two: 5.12b/c Climb up to first bolt and make committing moves out left towards the arete. Make a hard, technical move past the second bolt and reach a good incut hold. Follow the bolts up the face and move left at the fourth bolt. Reach the arete and 500 feet of air below your feet. A spectacular spot! Climb the arete up to a two-bolt-anchor.
Rappel the route to the ground. Three-star climbing with four-star position!