Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 3,372 total · 15/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Apr 13, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Mordor second pitch is by far one of the most spectacular in the Boulder area.

Pitch one: 5.10d Start 50 feet right of "Direct Route" on a ledge with several pine trees. Climb up a dog-leg crack (tricky start and gear) to a ledge. Follow a thin seam past two bolts up to a two-bolt-anchor.

Pitch two: 5.12b/c Climb up to first bolt and make committing moves out left towards the arete. Make a hard, technical move past the second bolt and reach a good incut hold. Follow the bolts up the face and move left at the fourth bolt. Reach the arete and 500 feet of air below your feet. A spectacular spot! Climb the arete up to a two-bolt-anchor.

Rappel the route to the ground. Three-star climbing with four-star position!


The first pitch takes small to medium gear. First pitch ends at a two-bolt-anchor. Pitch two is protected by six bolts and ends at a two-bolt-anchor.