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> Lower Dream Canyon
> Plotinus Wall
> Left Side
Chore Boy
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 141
votes
Routes in Left Side
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Art of Dreaming, The S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Bedtime Story S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Bobsled, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Caffeine Buzz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chore Boy T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Daily Grind, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Golden Slumber T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lucky Strikes S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Lucky-Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Morpheus T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mr. Sandman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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My Buddy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Napster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Not So Obscure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Opener S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sleepless Child T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Sleepless in Boulder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Smell the Coffee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Snooze Button S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Something Obscure T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tooth Fairy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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War On Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 100 ft |
| FA: | Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, 2002 |
| Page Views: | 3,248 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Ron Olsen on Dec 9, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Closure
Details
From the Flatirons Climbing Council: as of February 2018 per OSMP Dream Canyon - Boulder Falls is closed to the climbing community. More specifically, contractors will begin mobilizing equipment into Boulder Falls next week (February 12, 2018). They plan to chopper everything in from Sugarloaf Dr. No parking will be available at the Boulder Falls pullout for the duration for the project, as it will be the staging area for equipment and materials. Boulder Falls will be closed 7 days a week until construction is complete (estimated date is June), and that Dream Canyon and nearby crags by way of Boulder Falls will not be accessible to the public.
Access Issue: Access now open
Details
The Boulder Falls Trail was be closed to the public since the 2013 floods. Accessing the climbing areas in Lower Dream Canyon (Plotinus Wall) from the Boulder Falls Trail was off limits. In addition, the slopes above the Boulder Falls Trail were closed to access.
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the land owner. Climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon are trespassing.
Per Dan Gozdz: I reached out to OSMP and received the following reply about access: yes, there is now a designated climbing access trail through Boulder Falls that follows the old footpath through the Keyhole. Enjoy!
Dropping into Lower Dream Canyon from the Upper Dream Canyon access point crosses private property and is not permitted by the land owner. Climbers accessing this area from Upper Dream Canyon are trespassing.
Per Dan Gozdz: I reached out to OSMP and received the following reply about access: yes, there is now a designated climbing access trail through Boulder Falls that follows the old footpath through the Keyhole. Enjoy!
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update
Details
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Chore Boy starts just right of Snooze Button and uses the first bolt of that route. Clip the first bolt and angle into a blocky, shallow corner. Make a weird move left over a small overhang and crank up a steep wall on good holds to a shallow crack. Climb the crack up to and over a small overhang (gear) and reach a good ledge below a steep headwall. Power up the steep headwall past three bolts on good edges and sidepulls to the anchor.
Several hundred pounds of rock and dirt were removed from this route. The route is now cleaned of loose rock and most of the dirt and should clean up nicely after a few rain storms.
Several hundred pounds of rock and dirt were removed from this route. The route is now cleaned of loose rock and most of the dirt and should clean up nicely after a few rain storms.
As for difficulty, the reachy bulge at the 4th bolt or so is certainly harder for shorter climbers, which may explain any controversy.
This is actually a really good route, and much better than it looks.
-R Feb 18, 2003
Lyons, CO
Around Boulder, CO
~5.10b. The shorter, the harder... Jul 16, 2003
Boulder Colorado
Lakewood, CO
Golden, CO
To add another perspective on the "lookout Jim" episode, I was lowering Bob as he was to remove the flake. We moved everyone from the area (Jim was not yet in the area). Next thing Bob was holding this large flake screaming to be lowered. I got him to about 40 feet from the ground when he released the object. That was about the time Jim was ascending the fall line of the approach gully. He started hopping pretty quickly for an "old" man! Oct 31, 2003
However, like so many things, if I had had some gear with, I probably would have used it. Dec 8, 2003
Cape Ann
The "run-out" sections were always accompanied by easier climbing (and a nice new bolt) and I felt that to stop and fiddle with a placement would have been a waste of strength.
That said, the event of a spontaneous fall (aren't they always spontaneous?) probably would have resulted in a rather unenjoyable ride down the feature-ridden face.
The moral of the story: Bring gear if you like to feel safe, but whatever you do, get out and do this route. Dream Canyon is a very special place and is held very dear by those who visit.
Many thanks to Bob D. and Vaino for their route-setting and effective bolt-placement.
A final note: I chose to rap myself to avoid rope-drag on the edge of the headwall. I came all the way to my stopper-knots on a 60m rope. Aug 21, 2007
As far as the rating I'll say 5.9 unless you are saying this is harder than Cosmosis 9+? It is hard for me to consider different ratings standards for different areas of Boulder Canyon. Maybe 10c in Sport Park. Okay, so maybe Cosmosis is just hard for me...but this climb was not. So you short people need not fear the spray of these tall guys with their huge positive ape indexes and go climb this route. Climb the Snooze to the left as well. Nov 2, 2008
Eldoorado Springs, CO
The first time I led it with no gear. Not very wise. The second time I used a 0.5 and a 0.75 on the runout and felt much safer. Mar 29, 2009
Boulder, CO
This route is excellent and well worth the time. Long, fun cruxes and fun movement all the way up.
My wife escaped the long reach by moving right at the crux to crimps and edges, which doesn't take you too far off the bolt line, though it may ease the grade a bit. Sep 16, 2018
Denver, CO
MOST IMPORTANTLY, THERE IS A LOOSE HORN ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE FINAL MOVE WHERE YOU PULL THE MANTEL. YOU DON"T NEED IT, BUT IT WILL KILL SOMEONE IF IT HITS ANYONE. I ADDED A PICTURE TO THE GALLERY WITH A GIANT ARROW - BELAYER, WEAR A HELMET. Apr 26, 2019