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Routes in Left Side

Art of Dreaming, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bedtime Story S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bobsled, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Caffeine Buzz S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chore Boy T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Daily Grind, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Golden Slumber T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucky Strikes S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Lucky-Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Morpheus T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Sandman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Buddy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not So Obscure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Opener S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sleepless Child T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sleepless in Boulder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smell the Coffee S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snooze Button S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Something Obscure T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tooth Fairy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wake Up Call S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
War On Freedom S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, 2002
Page Views: 2,900 total · 15/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Dec 9, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Closure Details
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Description

Chore Boy starts just right of Snooze Button and uses the first bolt of that route. Clip the first bolt and angle into a blocky, shallow corner. Make a weird move left over a small overhang and crank up a steep wall on good holds to a shallow crack. Climb the crack up to and over a small overhang (gear) and reach a good ledge below a steep headwall. Power up the steep headwall past three bolts on good edges and sidepulls to the anchor.

Several hundred pounds of rock and dirt were removed from this route. The route is now cleaned of loose rock and most of the dirt and should clean up nicely after a few rain storms.

Protection

10 bolts plus some medium-to-small gear. 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

AKA...Run For Cover Jim Erickson! Cleaning up splendidly. A tad stiff for 5.10 b/c, S.K. Feb 4, 2003
This is a really cool route with several good cruxes. .10b/c is a good rating for this route, no harder Feb 15, 2003
The bolt count is actually ten - a single bolt was added (not by the FA party) on the very day that provided that little bit of excitement for Jim.

As for difficulty, the reachy bulge at the 4th bolt or so is certainly harder for shorter climbers, which may explain any controversy.

This is actually a really good route, and much better than it looks.

-R Feb 18, 2003
Scott Conner
Lyons, CO
Scott Conner   Lyons, CO
Excellent route. .10b/c seems about right. I'm 6'1" and could juuuust reach the key hold at the crux. Shorter climbers will definitely have to do a hard intermediate move to get there. This route has some great climbing. The upper headwall is steep and fun with a tricky top out. Nice and long, too. Stretched our 60m right to the half way mark. Jul 12, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
One of the better 10s on the wall. A single crux of maybe 2 moves can be done a number of ways, but most will feel harder than the given grade. One way, at the given grade, makes it all finesse, but does require 5'9" height or greater if I am guessing right (I'm 5'10" but have LOOOOONG arms and had 5" to spare).

~5.10b. The shorter, the harder... Jul 16, 2003
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
The relationship between difficulty and protection is not as straightforward as that. On this route, there is at least one15-20 foot stretch with no bolts. If, for whatever reason, you fall, it's going to have serious consequences. Merely saying that gear is not required because you lead a given grade and had no problem can mislead others who may not savor 40 foot fall potential regardless of difficulty. On this route, there are sections that are very closely bolted and others that are not. If you have no problem soloing 5.7, which is basically what you're doing on the runout part, then don't bring gear (and don't screw up). Otherwise be prudent and take a light rack. If you find you didn't need it, great. Oct 16, 2003
ac
ac  
If you can protect a climb to prevent an injurious fall, you owe it not only to yourself, but your partner, who will be forced to deal with you and your injury. I agree with Peter that falls sometimes happen well within your ability (remember Derek Hersey?). Oct 16, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Bob - a simple solution. We have lowered trundelers that were far too large to carry by drilling a bolt in them and then lowering the rock via a block and tackle pully system attached to a higher bolt. Most of the ropes will handle the job, but a static line has saved beating up the lead cords. Even a two-pass pully will handle some big loads (several hundred pounds), and smaller blocks can even be lowered with a GriGri. Beats getting stoned to death. Oct 16, 2003
Climbed this Sunday 10/20. Great route! There's is a large block (1/3 'frig) just to the right of the last bolt that is quite loose. There is an X on it now, but it could have monumental consequences if somebody pulled it off. Oct 20, 2003
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
Roger & Dave, as Ray indicated above, the need for gear was reduced by the addition of one bolt a few months after the route was put in. There was a section of about 40 feet (below the top 3 bolts) where gear was needed. This was also the area where the block was removed that nearly took out Jim. Although I don't think it was that close but did make a good story. I drilled the bolt. The rock in that area seemed a little crusty. The only reason you would fall is if the rock broke, and it seemed that the flakes over that small steep section could snap off.

To add another perspective on the "lookout Jim" episode, I was lowering Bob as he was to remove the flake. We moved everyone from the area (Jim was not yet in the area). Next thing Bob was holding this large flake screaming to be lowered. I got him to about 40 feet from the ground when he released the object. That was about the time Jim was ascending the fall line of the approach gully. He started hopping pretty quickly for an "old" man! Oct 31, 2003
I agree on not needing gear. we hadn't read this site, of course. Being in sport-weenie-mode, it didn't occur to us either to bring gear, or to desire it while doing the route. I didn't notice the run-outs.

However, like so many things, if I had had some gear with, I probably would have used it. Dec 8, 2003
Clare Shemeta
  5.10d
Clare Shemeta  
  5.10d
At the lower crux, there is a little sidepull crimper you can use for left hand. It's my secret hold. It's about 6 ft left of the 4th bolt. I'm 5'11", and I can't reach that top hold. But using this crimper, you can work the feet up without barn-dooring and voila - reach the top holds, and you're done! Oct 30, 2004
This route is definitely harder than 5.10b for shorter climbers. Maybe it is 10b if you're over 6' but for me (5'7") the crux was desperate. The route to the left was a lot easier in my opinion. Mar 18, 2007
DFrench
Cape Ann
  5.10b/c
DFrench   Cape Ann
  5.10b/c
I racked up for this route with a slew of small-to-medium gear after reading these posts and it ended up being nothing but dead-weight.

The "run-out" sections were always accompanied by easier climbing (and a nice new bolt) and I felt that to stop and fiddle with a placement would have been a waste of strength.

That said, the event of a spontaneous fall (aren't they always spontaneous?) probably would have resulted in a rather unenjoyable ride down the feature-ridden face.

The moral of the story: Bring gear if you like to feel safe, but whatever you do, get out and do this route. Dream Canyon is a very special place and is held very dear by those who visit.

Many thanks to Bob D. and Vaino for their route-setting and effective bolt-placement.

A final note: I chose to rap myself to avoid rope-drag on the edge of the headwall. I came all the way to my stopper-knots on a 60m rope. Aug 21, 2007
patrick kadel
  5.9
patrick kadel  
  5.9
This and Snooze were the best pitches I've done at Plotinus. So at 5'7" I made a dynamic move at the point I think all you tall people are saying this climb would be hard if you are short. Bullocks! That reachy move is only hard if you are short and refuse to let go. Easy catch but I welcome exciting moves with a 1 foot fall potential. Yeah, very brave.

As far as the rating I'll say 5.9 unless you are saying this is harder than Cosmosis 9+? It is hard for me to consider different ratings standards for different areas of Boulder Canyon. Maybe 10c in Sport Park. Okay, so maybe Cosmosis is just hard for me...but this climb was not. So you short people need not fear the spray of these tall guys with their huge positive ape indexes and go climb this route. Climb the Snooze to the left as well. Nov 2, 2008
Andrew McLean
Colorado
Andrew McLean   Colorado
The crux section difficulty is definitely based on the climber's height. At 6'6" I would give the crux 10-. The hardest part for me as the tricky top out move to get to the anchors.

The first time I led it with no gear. Not very wise. The second time I used a 0.5 and a 0.75 on the runout and felt much safer. Mar 29, 2009
Matt B
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Matt B   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
I really like to sew things up, but this route felt really well bolted to me. Bolts always right where I wanted them, and any "runouts" were short and very easy climbing. If you are right at your limit, you might want to bring some gear, but if you feel moderately confident climbing mid 5.10s, you'll be fine with just the bolts as they are.

This route is excellent, and well worth the time. Long, fun cruxes, and fun movement all the way up.

My wife escaped the long reach by moving right at the crux to crimps and edges, which doesn't take you too far off the bolt line, though it may ease the grade a bit. 5 days ago

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