Type: Sport
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, 2002
Page Views: 4,036 total · 20/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Apr 2, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Closure Details
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Sleepless in Boulder starts just left of The Art of Dreaming. Climb up a short corner to an obvious horn. Power up steep rock, laybacking to a good stance. Make nice face moves and continue up the steep face past several bolts to cool moves up and over a bulge to a hard move on a small arete. Climb past the arete using a thin crack on the left and arete on the right. Float to the anchor.


11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
This a great route but needs a thorough cleaning. Lots of friable flaky rock and also a questionable fairly large flake near the top. I'm thinking that's going to come out soon with someone holding onto it. Apr 29, 2002
On May 31, my partner and I counted 11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. And there is indeed a slightly loose flake near the top of the route. At first glance, it is an inviting hold, which you reach right for, just below a clip (at the 10th bolt, I believe). When I grabbed it, it groaned in a sickening way. Also, at the beginning of the route, be wary of a large slabby block (about 3 feet by 4 feet by 8 inches) between bolts 1 and 2. The top of the block is a very sharp juggy rail that you use for your hands and later your feet. This block seemed solid, but there doesn't seem to be much keeping it attached to the wall; it is undercut below, and there are cracks on all the other sides, including underneath. Jun 7, 2002
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
Climbed this a couple of weeks ago. Good jugs on steep rock down low. Upper headwall moves are pretty cool. Agree with the comment about the huge flake between bolts 1 and 2, although it *sounds* completely solid. Didn't notice the loose flake up high though so maybe its gone now. Check for loose nuts on the bolts -- two bolts (one at the anchor and one a couple of bolts from the top) had extremely loose nuts. Jul 8, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Good route, one of the better ones I did at the cliff. It had a little of everything, jug-fest section, power section, balance, crimp, mantle.

I'm not a big fan of one-move wonders with a pile of 5.9 aside... and this was not one of those- it kept my attention. Good route.

Seems a little easy for mid 5.11, but it's good at any grade. Jul 11, 2003
Perhaps I missed something, but it felt a little tough for 11a/b to me. Fun none the less. Jul 21, 2003
Joe Collins
Joe Collins  
Fun climbing. This probably deserves one star right now, but once it cleans up a bit it will be a solid 2 star route. Sep 2, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Hard and strenuous at the bottom. Easy in the middle. Perplexing moves right and up at the top. I moved right onto the "arete" for the last moves to the anchors. Is that what people do? There was a bit of chalk going straight up the thin crack using small sloping footholds. But you'd have to reach right anyway to clip the anchors.

I didn't notice anything loose, but I see the big yellow question mark on the big flake in the photo. I, and presumably everyone else, hung on this flake with full body weight.

I rate climbs by Eldo and Boulder Canyon trad standards, so I'm calling this 11a. Could be 10d by those standards. I typically struggle (ie, hang once or twice) on 10c trad, but onsighted this. Oct 10, 2003
Bruce Pech
Bruce Pech   Boulder
Variety is the spice of life. Overhanging laybacks, moderate face, and some interesting moves to reach the arete. Didn't see any loose rock on the route -- but reaching the bolt that protects the hard move right to the arete is a stretch. Mar 22, 2004
Wyo Mike  
I repeated this route about two weeks ago. It is an excellent route, but a huge flake has broken off between the first and second bolt changing the difficulty of the climb the ease of clipping the second bolt. It is still a good route but be prepared for a rating that is a letter grade or two above the current rating, especially if you are short! Jan 5, 2005
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
Are you talking about the giant flake with a yellow question mark on it in the photo above the "comments" section? I hope not. Jan 6, 2005
Eight-foot crow bar?

And to think, all this time I haven't had one of these on my rack. And everybody knows that you ain't diddley without a really big tool!

So, where'd you get it? Neptune's only carries the 3 foot model. Jan 6, 2005
Sort of too bad. That route was nicknamed the guillotine :) Jan 6, 2005
Is the climb still around 11a without the block? Jun 8, 2005
I did this route on Saturday and it felt a bit harder than 11a to me and it appears that the missing block may have assisted in the feet situation between the second and third bolts. I am also comparing the grade to other grades in the canyon which can obviously change things. All in all, I think Sleepless in Boulder is a great route. Jun 14, 2005
Kevin Neilson
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
I finally got this yesterday and I give it 5.11c. I never climbed it before the flake was removed and I think it has probably become significantly harder. Instead of standing on top of the now-defunct flake, you have to lie back and get your left foot high on a flaring crack that is above where the flake used to be. This entire bottom section is fairly burly and leaves you tired when you finally pull it.

I think another tough section is at about the 7th bolt as seen in the photo. At this point there is an edge on which to layback, but it's difficult to get into. The layback is left-facing, and you start to the left of it, so there is an awkward swing into the layback position. Once you clip and mantel onto the holds over the clip, there are few holds on the face and I had to reach right for the arete. I think this is on-route. You also have to reach right for the arete before achieving the anchors, unless I'm a wuss and there is some way to stay on the face without using the arete. Jul 7, 2005
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Nice variety, fun route. From the perspective of a TR watching someone suss out the moves, I'd agree with Bob, this felt 5.11a/b. Around 7th bolt, there is a foothold R to make the move easier. Seemed the crux was around the 9th bolt moving R to the lieback. Jan 15, 2006
brent pohlmann
San Francisco, CA
brent pohlmann   San Francisco, CA
I tried this route on Saturday, and right after you clip the first bolt, there is an obvious horn out left with a ton of chalk on it that is now pretty loose. Does anyone know if it's always been that loose or is this a recent development? Sep 25, 2006
desbien   seattle,wa
The loose horn is now X'ed. I didn't tempt fate and avoided it throughout. Tough bottom section in the 11d range, upper section is a breeze with a considerably easier upper crux. Fun route, little blah in the middle. This is not an 11a/b, c if not d for the lower crux. Sandbaggers abound! Apr 23, 2007
Boulder, CO
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
Maybe I'm just weak these days, but this felt pretty solid 11c to me. No loose rock that I found that I needed. Apr 20, 2008

Burly start but luckily you are fresh for this part. Mostly easy climbing. I didn't really like the bolt placement up at the 'step across' move. The move isn't that difficult but a little awkward. The bolt should have been placed higher, so that you could clip from the high point of the good hand holds. There is a ledge about 10 feet below, and your belayer can't hear or see you at this spot. Aug 8, 2012
Rick Vermeil
Erie, CO
Rick Vermeil   Erie, CO
This line starts off with some interesting opposing force moves to attain the good holds at the 3rd bolt and then immediately sends you in to a powerful lieback crux. It's really pumpy from the ground up through the 4th bolt and warrants an 11c rating in my opinion. I think the given rating of 11a no longer applies, since the big flake directly under the crux was removed. Grab some big jugs at the top of the sequence, and de-pump while on a nice cruise up through rock features similar to its neighbor Mr. Sandman. Come to a big, chalked-up flake, and prepare for the second crux to gain the arete and then up to the anchors. A long route with lots of intriguing moves, great rock features, and two distinct cruxes makes for an excellent sport route! May 17, 2015
John W
Estes Park
John W   Estes Park
Anchors don't look great as well as spinner bolts throughout. Bring a rappel device. Great route otherwise. Do it! Sep 4, 2018