Elevation: 7,500 ft
GPS: 40.0102, -105.4066
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 459,002 total · 1,707/month
Shared By: Quinn Stevens on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

Upper Dream Canyon is one of the more secluded yet nearby climbing areas around. Climbing in Upper Dream Canyon is as much about the routes themselves as it is the gentle canyon that surrounds you. The area has a reputation for being a homosexual and nudist hotspot; however, this is exaggerated. Nevertheless, find another climbing area if this offends you. Upper Dream Canyon offers a nice variety of traditional and sport climbs, often enabling a climbing party to climb out of the canyon--a must during a late summer sunset. Because this area is pristine, be sure to pick up your trash, stay on trails, and respect the residents that live above the canyon.

This area include ~13 crags, although Lost Angel & Dream Dome have the bulk of the climbs here. Much of the climbing here is bolt protected; however, there are some gear routes here.

Getting There

Although Upper Dream Canyon can be reached by hiking up from the base of Boulder Falls, most opt for turning right off Boulder Canyon at ~4 miles on Sugarloaf Road. After 3 miles, take a left on Lost Angel Road, continue straight at 1 mile, head left shortly after (at the sign posted on a tree stump that says North Gulch), and you will reach a dirt parking lot within another half mile. Several trails lead to the base of Upper Dream Canyon. To reach the Oceanic Wall and Dream Dome, walk down the road a short way past the parking lot and veer left on a trail that takes you to the north end of the canyon. The more southern portions of the canyon can be reached via a series of trails that skirt the top of the canyon heading west, then shoot down between rock outcroppings.

Addendum: this area can be challenging to locate without someone to introduce you to the area.

Per Benjamn P: the old Oceanic Wall hiking trail gpx is incorrect.

198 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Dream Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 396
Wrinkles in Time
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 89
A Brief History of Time
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 126
Pound Town
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 129
Strange Cargo
Sport 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 226
In Your Dreams
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 79
Stained Glass
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 83
Tales of Power
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 99
Divination
Sport 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 141
Hunky Monkey
Sport 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 144
The Deep
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 118
Leviathan
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 65
Creature from the Black Lagoon
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 169
Sargasso Sea
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 68
Earth Voyage
Sport 4 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 93
Archangel
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wrinkles in Time Dream Dome
 396
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
A Brief History of Time Dream Dome
 89
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Pound Town Oceanic Wall
 126
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Strange Cargo Lost Angel
 129
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
In Your Dreams Oceanic Wall
 226
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Stained Glass Dream Dome
 79
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Tales of Power Dream Dome
 83
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Divination Lost Angel
 99
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Hunky Monkey Lost Angel
 141
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
The Deep Oceanic Wall
 144
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Leviathan Oceanic Wall
 118
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Creature from the Black Lagoon Oceanic Wall
 65
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Sargasso Sea Oceanic Wall
 169
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Earth Voyage Lost Angel
 68
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 4 pitches
Archangel Lost Angel
 93
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Upper Dream Canyon »

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