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Elevation: 7,500 ft 2,286 m
GPS: 40.0102, -105.4066
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 463,403 total · 1,621/month
Shared By: Quinn Stevens on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

Upper Dream Canyon is one of the more secluded yet nearby climbing areas around. Climbing in Upper Dream Canyon is as much about the routes themselves as it is the gentle canyon that surrounds you. The area has a reputation for being a homosexual and nudist hotspot; however, this is exaggerated. Nevertheless, find another climbing area if this offends you. Upper Dream Canyon offers a nice variety of traditional and sport climbs, often enabling a climbing party to climb out of the canyon--a must during a late summer sunset. Because this area is pristine, be sure to pick up your trash, stay on trails, and respect the residents that live above the canyon.

This area include ~13 crags, although Lost Angel & Dream Dome have the bulk of the climbs here. Much of the climbing here is bolt protected; however, there are some gear routes here.

Getting There Suggest change

Although Upper Dream Canyon can be reached by hiking up from the base of Boulder Falls, most opt for turning right off Boulder Canyon at ~4 miles on Sugarloaf Road. After 3 miles, take a left on Lost Angel Road, continue straight at 1 mile, head left shortly after (at the sign posted on a tree stump that says North Gulch), and you will reach a dirt parking lot within another half mile. Several trails lead to the base of Upper Dream Canyon. To reach the Oceanic Wall and Dream Dome, walk down the road a short way past the parking lot and veer left on a trail that takes you to the north end of the canyon. The more southern portions of the canyon can be reached via a series of trails that skirt the top of the canyon heading west, then shoot down between rock outcroppings.

Addendum: this area can be challenging to locate without someone to introduce you to the area.

Per Benjamn P: the old Oceanic Wall hiking trail gpx is incorrect.

203 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Dream Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 416
Wrinkles in Time
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 138
Strange Cargo
Sport 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 255
In Your Dreams
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 90
Tales of Power
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 106
Divination
Sport 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 148
Hunky Monkey
Sport 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 157
The Deep
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 16
Jet Stream
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 131
Leviathan
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 69
Creature from the Black Lagoon
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 184
Sargasso Sea
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 75
Earth Voyage
Sport 4 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 99
Archangel
Sport 2 pitches
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C0
 19
Red Limit
Sport, Aid
5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
 15
China Doll (P1-2, free)
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wrinkles in Time Dream Dome
 416
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Strange Cargo Lost Angel
 138
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
In Your Dreams Oceanic Wall
 255
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Tales of Power Dream Dome
 90
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Divination Lost Angel
 106
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Hunky Monkey Lost Angel
 148
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
The Deep Oceanic Wall
 157
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Jet Stream Midnight Rock
 16
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Leviathan Oceanic Wall
 131
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Creature from the Black Lagoon Oceanic Wall
 69
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Sargasso Sea Oceanic Wall
 184
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Earth Voyage Lost Angel
 75
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 4 pitches
Archangel Lost Angel
 99
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
Red Limit Dream Dome
 19
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C0 Sport, Aid
China Doll (P1-2, free) Lost Angel
 15
5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Upper Dream Canyon »

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