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Areas in Upper Dream Canyon

Bat Cove 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Candle Stick Crag 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Chamber, The 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Classic Cliff 1 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Dream Dome 7 / 15 / 2 / 5 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 26
Greenhouse, The 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Icon, The 1 / 2 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Jessica's Block 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Lost Angel 24 / 36 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 54
Midnight Rock 6 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
Oceanic Wall 4 / 16 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Spider's Den, The 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Steeple, The 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Terrace, The 0 / 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Thunder Point 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Touch of Grey Slabs 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Turtle Dome 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Universal Crag 1 / 6 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Vanishing Point 3 / 9 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Water Slabs 0 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Description

Upper Dream Canyon is one of the more secluded yet nearby climbing areas around. Climbing in Upper Dream Canyon is as much about the routes themselves as it is the gentle canyon that surrounds you. The area has a reputation for being a homosexual and nudist hotspot, however, this is exaggerated. Nevertheless, find another climbing area if this offends you. Upper Dream Canyon offers a nice variety of traditional and sport climbs, often enabling a climbing party to climb out of the canyon--a must during a late summer sunset. Because this area is pristine, be sure to pick up your trash, stay on trails, and respect the residents that live above the canyon.

This area include ~13 crags, although Lost Angel & Dream Dome have the bulk of the climbs here. Much of the climbing here is bolt protected; however, there are some gear routes here.

Getting There

Although Upper Dream Canyon can be reached by hiking up from the base of Boulder Falls, most opt for turning right off Boulder Canyon at ~4 miles on Sugarloaf Road. After 3 miles, take a left on Lost Angel Road, continue straight at 1 mile, head left shortly after (at the sign posted on a tree stump that says North Gulch), and you will reach a dirt parking lot within another half mile. Several trails lead to the base of Upper Dream Canyon. To reach the Oceanic Wall and Dream Dome, walk down the road a short way past the parking lot and veer left on a trail that takes you to the north end of the canyon. The more southern portions of the canyon can be reached via a series of trails that skirt the top of the canyon heading west, then shoot down between rock outcroppings.

Addendum: this area can be challenging to locate without someone to introduce you to the area.

177 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Dream Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wrinkles in Time
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pound Town
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
AAArete
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
In Your Dreams
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Strange Cargo
Sport 3 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Autumn
Sport 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stained Glass
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tales of Power
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination
Sport 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hunky Monkey
Sport 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
The Deep
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Leviathan
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sargasso Sea
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Voyage
Sport 4 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Archangel
Sport 2 pitches
Wrinkles in Time Dream Dome 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Pound Town Oceanic Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
AAArete Lost Angel 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
In Your Dreams Oceanic Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Strange Cargo Lost Angel 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Autumn Lost Angel 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Stained Glass Dream Dome 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Tales of Power Dream Dome 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Divination Lost Angel 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Hunky Monkey Lost Angel 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
The Deep Oceanic Wall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Leviathan Oceanic Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Sargasso Sea Oceanic Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Earth Voyage Lost Angel 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 4 pitches
Archangel Lost Angel 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Upper Dream Canyon »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Hello all!!

I was climbing at Upper Dream Canyon on Sunday May 26th and I left my camera at the rocks somewhere. It is an Olympus Tough Tg-1 with silver and black body and has a red wrist strap on it. This camera has been around the world with me and is very special to me. If anyone has located it or has any information, I WILL GIVE A REWARD. PLEASE!!

Anyone with any information, please contact me!! williamcmitchell3@gmail.com.

Thank you, good people!!!
Jun 4, 2013
KB
Moab, UT
KB   Moab, UT
Found a pair of purple Evolv shoes size 6.5 up near Gully Washer ... anyone looking for these? Sep 29, 2012
prod. Kenny
Boulder, Co
prod. Kenny   Boulder, Co
Well.... Bob D's book is fairly vague on how to get into the canyon, and there is no signage. But the best way to figure a place out is to get lost, if you have the time.... We did.

Also saw a gay, assumption, naked man walking down the trail. If I were him, I'd stick to hiking in the nude in warmer weather....

Prod. Oct 16, 2011
Jeremy W
Clinton, NY
Jeremy W   Clinton, NY
8/25/2011
Attn: There is a stuck Orange Petzl rope on the lefthand-ish side of Dream Dome, the rope extends down to the water. This is my rope, I got it stuck in a thin crack pulling it down from rappel anchors at the top. I'll grab it Saturday, but if anyone sees it, please leave it alone, or just hide it somewhere at the bottom if you're going to climb the route. Thanks, Jeremy Aug 25, 2011
LKT
LKT  
I have a question about Dream Canyon, so forgive me if my post is irrelevant. In 1977, I was taken up there and hiked along the creek. My guide then left me alone to camp out there by myself and said if I followed the trail I'd end up at the hwy (119). He didn't tell me there was a waterfall (not Boulder Falls but before). I ended up going down that fall and I want to know how tall it is? Anyone know what I'm talking about? It was a long time ago. Thanks! Jul 18, 2010
Kaner
Eagle
Kaner   Eagle
I agree with other that this IS indeed a popular homosexual and nudist hangout from a few experiences (no I'm not gay, no I don't have a problem with old men tanning naked-just awkward, yes I do have problem seeing man-on-man sex acts in a beautiful sunny canyon on a weekend)

Also, coed nudists hang here. This I have no problem with.
mountainproject.com/v/color… Sep 23, 2008
Gold Plated Rocket Pony   Boulder, CO
Thanks to whoever took the time this week to cut down a few of the branches on the trail leading down to the Oceanic Wall and clean it up. That section was a real pain to get around. Jun 20, 2008
Chad  
My guidebook was grabbed at base of the Lost Angel wall. If you have it, please let me know. caabiz@gmail.com Nov 20, 2007
Brian said,

"Also on the initial description: There are many ways to hike into LOWER Dream Canyon from the Boulder Falls area, but climbing above the falls (as many a flatlander has done) can earn you a trespassing ticket from rangers (trust me)."

I know many climbers have been ignoring the sign for years. Has anybody else gotten a ticket for hiking up from Boulder Falls? May 12, 2007
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
Another way to get to Dream is by soloing the 4/5th class rock to the east of the falls. Just cross the creek and hike uphill a tad. I'm not sure if this is trespassing as well, but I can't imagine it is... Signs were on the West side of the creek, so... Lots of fun to do in wintry conditions/snow! Also, anyone know the name/grade of the 2 bolt route JUST right of the Falls? It runs up a blank wall with a roof, if I recall. Looks a little...um...run-out? Sep 26, 2003
The rock across the creek from Lost Angel, downstream from the Terrace is called "Irish Holiday" and the bolted route is called "Spiders and Snakes" (5.12b). This route was cleaned, bolted and had its first free ascent by Bob Horan in the Autumn of 1998, assisted and belayed by myself and Mark Winstead. There is a short crack to the right of this route which finishes with the last three bolts on the rock, done free by me, then Mark, and named "Jack Hunter" (5.8). This is mentioned for posterity, not as a recommendation.

When you read the initial Dream Canyon description substitute "gay men" for "homosexual" and "exhibitionist" for "nudist." Having lived in the closest house to the canyon and Boulder Falls for over three years, I saw a lot of things, but I never saw a lesbian. Don't mistake my comments for scrutiny. People should be free to do what makes them happy in nature (be it hike, or climb, or have sex with strangers) as long as nature is preserved.

Also on the initial description: There are many ways to hike into LOWER Dream Canyon from the Boulder Falls area, but climbing above the falls (as many a flatlander has done) can earn you a trespassing ticket from rangers (trust me). From the parking area, cross the road down canyon from the "hole in the rock" and find the steep and narrow telephone service trail, try to avoid touron attention and be mindful of loose rock above the road. Only use this trail to access lower Dream Canyon during high water, otherwise hike down from the upper canyon. Be careful on all scree slopes and stay out of the mines, several have been filled in by the forest service during the last fifteen years but not all. They are unstable and perilous. Be discrete and respectful above the rim (i.e. top of Winter Warmth), it is private property. Sep 22, 2003
Jay Hippel
Denver, CO
Jay Hippel   Denver, CO
What is the route across the creek from [Lost Angel]? slightly overhanging, good holds, the only route on the rock. It's between the [Plank Bridge] and [The Terrace] and a really great line. Name? Grade? Sep 3, 2003
Dream question: Above the anchors on Freedom [Lost Angel Wall] are two bolted routes which don't seem to be in Rossiter's guide or in this database . . . Anyone know what they are? Thanks. Jun 26, 2003
Anyone know the name of the rock, and the single route, about 100 yardsdownstream from The Terrace? There is a single bolted line (6 bolts) onan overhanging face, leading to a two bolt rap anchor. The rock isslightly upstream from the plank across the river at the Lost Angel.Grade for the route?

Thanks for any information. Jun 16, 2003
I would affirm Dream Canyon's reputation as a nudist/homosexual spot, having three such experiences in my first five visits. Not unpleasant people, though not afraid. Once, mountain biking all the way east along Ridge Road in Nederland and passing the "summer road" and passing out of the residential area, I followed my nose along dirt roads until I was getting near Boulder Falls. Finding an interesting looking trail north, I jumped on it it and headed steeply down the hill. The trail petered out to deer track, and I was coming hard down the fall line with my bike on my shoulder. As I neared the creek, I began to hear chanting. At the very bottom of the canyon on the south side was a small meadow, on which were a few tents. A small bridge crossed the creek here to the north, where there is a large flat space at the bottom west end of Dream Canyon. A large blue tarp was suspended as an open walled tent, and underneath it were 2 dozen 30-40 something outdoorsy kinda Boulder types, wearing North Face and fleece jackets. Three women appeared to be inspired by spirits and were fainting backwards in ecstasy into cohorts arms. Again, chanting. 8-10 more dome tents, coupla SUVs, and as I cross the bridge, a couple of fellas quickly cruise over (spiritual, long hair, not menancing, but very concerned about my presence) and escort me towards the road, asking wassup? Motioned towards the other side of the canyon and the epic I would have had had I not found the bridge, and they just asked that I not return. One of the cars in the normal Dream Canyon parking lot had a bumpersticker; "Life's a joy, then you ascend...". Dream Canyon is its own vortex... Jun 12, 2003

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