Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lost Angel

5.9 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dyno ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 4 pitches
FA: Bob Horan
Page Views: 6,504 total, 32/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


45 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route begins just left of China Doll (the obvious 5.13 dihedral) on the center of the Lost Angel formation. 2 variations of the first pitch exist, the one on the left is recommended and is a VERY stiff 12a or 12b. If you feel ok on this pitch, you'll do fine on the rest of the route. The 2nd pitch has a few moves of 12a, then some sustained slab climbing to another anchor. The final 2 pitches are 5.11 slab and excellent.

Protection

Fully bolted. 4 pitches.

Photos

Curt MacNeill,
July 16, 2015
Agreed. Incredibly sustained with lots of tricks on this one. It's a delicate climb that requires some finesse. I reckon this entire climb could be done in one mega pitch by using an 80 meter rope, skipping lots of bolts, and having super long runners. Not sure if anyone has ever done it that way. Next level, game on....


Hi Curt - I did this back in 2002 with Eric Nienhouse for the first three pitches. It was mega - go do the 4 pitches as one and send the photos! Be safe.

Tom Jan 11, 2016
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Agreed. Incredibly sustained with lots of tricks on this one. It's a delicate climb that requires some finesse. I reckon this entire climb could be done in one mega pitch by using an 80 meter rope, skipping lots of bolts, and having super long runners. Not sure if anyone has ever done it that way. Next level, game on.... Jul 16, 2015
Swavek Gaik
Superior, CO
 
Swavek Gaik   Superior, CO
 
Great route! Every pitch is stiff for the grade. Suggest linking first 2 pitches with several long slings to reduce rope drag. Jul 13, 2015
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
 
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
 
Anyone have beta for the P2 crux? From the horizontal, I have to get my feet up high and do a dyno to the low point of the sloping shelf. Is this how others do it too? Apr 6, 2015
climberboy228 Romano  
  5.12b
Did Earth Voyage today with my partner after many years of dreaming about it. It was cold, windy, and mostly sunny...but the friction held well. We used the two bolted 5.10s nearby (AAArete and Drop Zone) as warmups...both a bit stiff/tricky, but they did the trick. The first three pitches are VERY sustained! Start at the bottom of China Doll, clip the first bolt, and then begin traversing left. Pitch 1 was the most difficult for me as it included some crafty traversing on steep terrain with difficult sequences. My partner found pitches 2 and 3 to be as difficult or more as they became very thin slab routes. We rappelled with a 60 meter rope in 3 raps...pitch 4, pitch 3, and pitch 2&1 together (with ZERO rope to spare but totally safe). The most difficult multi-pitch I've ever done...amazing! I'm not sure what impressed me more, the sequences, the rock, or the exposure?! Mar 28, 2014
Jesse Huey  
 
I would suggest combining pitches 1 & 2 if you want to climb pitch 2 to avoid the hanging belay. It is possible to clip into a long sling direct and not weight the rope, pull it up through your draws, start pitch 2 through the anchor hence eliminating rope drag and the hanging belay. Pitch one is more like 11+, pitch 2 is a hard onsight if there is no chalk up there. One of the best face pitches in BC that I have found. 60 meter rope will lower JUST from the anchor of P2 to the ground. Apr 20, 2010
desbien
seattle,wa
5.12b
desbien   seattle,wa
5.12b
P1 kicked punted me after the crux. Deceptive route. May 4, 2008
rob rebel
Bend, OR
rob rebel   Bend, OR
Did this climb yesterday. Incredible, pretty sustained in nature. Really nice exposure, etc. Be prepared for a hanging belay after first pitch.

There was a flake near the top of pitch 2 that looks like it recently came off. It made the top of pitch two really hard. I don't know if this effects the rating, but I thought that might be the crux on the whole thing now, not pitch 1 (which was the best pitch). Nov 19, 2007
RE: Pitch 1, what i believe to be the 5.12 traverse that goes into a flaring crack. (I believe this is the first pitch of Earth Voyage: a sloping/crimpy traverse into a flared crack followed by balancey 11+ moves to anchor 1).

There is a very creaky small flake at the first bolt of this first pitch--the bolt is shared with the straight up 5.11a/or 5.10 (I think the first half pitch of China Doll, but it has anchors before the 13 crack).

I mention it because it is the most obvious, and best [hold] at the first bolt.

It's ripe and ready to bust off so be careful. There are other things to grab.

To the area developers: if you can verify this problem, would you consider wedging the hold off? It wouldn't change the difficulty of either route at all. Might be a safeguard against a short groundfall and rockfall.

I was there this past Sat and the thing was really loose. May 18, 2005
The jams are solid though - every bit as solid as the positive holds lower ... unless your hands are small. Then I'm thinking it is fists. The crux of this climb definitely toggles according to size - the high step below the 4th clip is the crux if you're 6' with sizeable hands, the crack at the 5th clip is the crux if you're _ 5'9" with small hands - Oct 2, 2004
If you're 5' 9" or shorter, you probably aren't going to be able to clip the bolt right of the bulging spot with the flaring crack using the really positive lieback holds. Unfortunately, you've got to let go of the good holds and jam the left hand in the crack in order to get the clip. Oh and you might not want the thought to enter your mind: "my last clip is about five moves right and down from where I am now. I'm f*%cked if I fall." Sep 22, 2004
Jeff Sallen
San Diego
  5.12a
Jeff Sallen   San Diego
  5.12a
excellent rock, with a beautiful line. while walking down the creek, we spotted this climb and believed from the ground that it would not be overly difficult....Wrong Wrong Wrong....as a confident 5.11 leader, i got spanked hard on this one....felt more like 12c or 12d at the slabby, slightly overhanging crux sections....Neely, pony up, next time this one is ours.. May 20, 2004
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
An argument for purging all of the AC carping and squabbling is that so much of what is posted here simply falls into public view. I think that Myke indicated something like 50,000 hits a month on this site. In principle at least, that should incduce us to try a put the best face forward. If you look at the information content that most of the users of this site have posted, then on balance, it would seem that most people try to be informative, and most do a pretty good job of not looking stupid in public. I am adamantly opposed to censorship in any form, so rather than purging, perhaps it is best simply to give no response to the confrontational dirvel that crops up occasionally. It's like dealing with unruly children - without an audience, sooner or later they dry up. Jan 25, 2004
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
...or a bad immitation of Stuart Smally. Jan 24, 2004
Things are better when you guys don't dip down to "our" level.

Best to just _DELETE_ Jan 23, 2004
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
Hey Asshole Coward, another site maintainer here. I'm puzzled by the affliction of people like you whose instincts are to bitch and moan instead of actually contributing to society. Didn't you send us an email a long time ago?

Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 12:52:48 -0600 NAME: Jim StevensEMAIL: Meadroon@aol.com

COMMENTS Your FA: unknowns is lame, especially in Dream Canyon. Everyone knows tghat Bob Horan put up those 4 pitch routes, how ignorant especially when it in the references you qoute, Another proagated site from what I'm starting to see. Jan 22, 2004
Who is the A-hole who does this site anyway. Whoever it is, they seem to not know a dang thing about the first ascentionists. It is well known that Bob Horan put up this and most all of the routes in dream canyon. Get it straight, jerk wade. Jan 20, 2004
Anonymous Wanker - give Dan shit only when you've done the second pitch with the 80' of rope drag of the first pitch behind you - Aug 8, 2003
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
Hi Tom, I certainly wouldn't want to be scratching up the p2 deceptive slab crux w/ 80 feet of rope tugging at my waist. Feb 28, 2003
Wanted to suggest a stout variation on Earth Voyage - Eric Nienhouse and I strung the first 3 pitches together as one in the fall - ~160 - rope drag is an issue, but with selective long slings and clip omissions, it should be smoother - great pump and variety within one pitch. Feb 27, 2003
Kevin's beta on the 2nd pitch is right on with my experience - however, I watched a few weeks ago as Ken Duncan botched my sequence and fired straight up from about half way across the ramp - I need to go back and see if there are holds .... Kevin, you should do the 3rd pitch as well - it is outstanding and sustained. Looks like mellow slab from the belay atop the 2nd pitch but comes at you a bit harder than it looks. Aug 21, 2002
Kevin Frederick
Lusaka, ZM
Kevin Frederick   Lusaka, ZM
I did the first two pitches of this route last weekend. Great fun. I had done the first pitch a few years ago, possibly with the the original poster Mr. Wehner hisself. I also made it up the second pitch this time, which I don't think I've been on before. I pulled through the roof okay but was bewildered by the slab beyond, despite thinking that I was good on slabs. I made it through after grabbing a draw and choosing a new line. I was delighted to see my second make the same route-finding error, heh heh. Since copious beta is the raison d'etre of this site, what worked for me and my second on the 2nd pitch was to keep our feet on the ramp all the way to the tippy top of the horn that the ramp ends at. Aug 21, 2002
John, the honer Kiwi, and I did all 4 pitches on saturday - one of the best routes we've done in the Boulder area. The first pitch is pumpy but pales in quality to the second pitch - so keep going! The second pitch is aesthetic in terms of rock quality, moves, and its sustained nature. Get on it early though so you avoid being blinded while pulling nubs and laybacking/underclinging tips. Jul 22, 2002
Maybe I was tired, maybe the rock had reached a scorching 95 degrees by this time of the day, or maybe (insert some other excuse)... but after onsighting the first pitch, I had to yard on the draw at the crux of pitch 2 while following and neither my partner or I were ever able to work out the moves. Hard slabbin' on the pitch after that which felt harder than the 11d 3rd pitch climbin'. Cool roof moves on pitch 4. Anyway, one of the best multi-pitch sport routes I've ever done (screw El Portrero Chico) though the 2nd pitch is pretty tough. Jul 1, 2002
I just did this route yesterday and will say that it is one of the best multipitch sport climbs i've ever been on! Pitches 1 and 2 are both solid 12a, especially for the onsight,and pitch 3 is more steep slab with a couple tricky moves (watch out for the loose flake just above bolt #1 on pitch 3, if it came off it would fall right on top of your belayer). Pitch 4 (10b) is nothing to get excited about, but it does make for an airy ending to such a fabulous climb. Three raps straight down with a 60m rope (final rap from anchors at top of pitch two cuts it very close!) Sep 6, 2001
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
I just got on this route today for the first time, and although I loved every inch of it, it really is tough. I had just climbed Sargasso Sea (another 12a in Dream Canyon), and the first two pitches of Earth Voyage were far more difficult. Make sure you e up on your steep slab technique before throwing yourself at the second and third pitches! :) Jan 1, 2001