Avg: 2.3 from 8 votes
|Type:||Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Horan & Klee|
|Page Views:||199 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Bruce Pech on May 11, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe 1st pitch of Disneyland follows a line of bolts directly up the face below Lost Angel's South Tower. The 2nd pitch ascends a beautiful arete and face to the summit of the Tower.
DISCLAIMER. Because I rarely on-sight .11d, I found the protection at the crux unsettling. Afraid that I'd swing into a block if I took a fall, I stood in a sling, clipped the 10th bolt, and lowered to the stance at the 9th bolt before continuing. Better climbers may be more comfortable with the placement of the crux bolts.
Either follow the base of the cliff uphill from Autumn, past Zentropa, to the Long Dong Dihedral or hike down the Wake Up Wall approach gully to the corner of the South Tower, turn north, and descend another 50 yards to Long Dong.
P1: Start up the Long Dong Dihedral, then follow 9 bolts up a technically interesting face to a stance below a bulge ending in a right-leaning dihedral. Struggle over the PG-13 bulge into the insecure, cramped dihedral, clip the 10th bolt, and grope for good holds out of sight above. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor below a ramp. .11d, 100', 10 bolts.
P2: Climb easily to the ramp, make a dicey traverse left around the west arete of the South Tower (extend 1 or 2 clips to reduce rope drag), then climb a steep, sustained wall just left of the arete to a 2 bolt anchor near the summit. .11a, 80', 10 bolts.
Rap the route or descend the Wake Up Wall approach gully.