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Routes in Lost Angel

5.9 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dyno ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Horan & Klee
Page Views: 182 total, 1/month
Shared By: Bruce Pech on May 11, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The 1st pitch of Disneyland follows a line of bolts directly up the face below Lost Angel's South Tower. The 2nd pitch ascends a beautiful arete and face to the summit of the Tower.

DISCLAIMER. Because I rarely on-sight .11d, I found the protection at the crux unsettling. Afraid that I'd swing into a block if I took a fall, I stood in a sling, clipped the 10th bolt, and lowered to the stance at the 9th bolt before continuing. Better climbers may be more comfortable with the placement of the crux bolts.

Either follow the base of the cliff uphill from Autumn, past Zentropa, to the Long Dong Dihedral or hike down the Wake Up Wall approach gully to the corner of the South Tower, turn north, and descend another 50 yards to Long Dong.

P1: Start up the Long Dong Dihedral, then follow 9 bolts up a technically interesting face to a stance below a bulge ending in a right-leaning dihedral. Struggle over the PG-13 bulge into the insecure, cramped dihedral, clip the 10th bolt, and grope for good holds out of sight above. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor below a ramp. .11d, 100', 10 bolts.

P2: Climb easily to the ramp, make a dicey traverse left around the west arete of the South Tower (extend 1 or 2 clips to reduce rope drag), then climb a steep, sustained wall just left of the arete to a 2 bolt anchor near the summit. .11a, 80', 10 bolts.

Rap the route or descend the Wake Up Wall approach gully.

Protection

13 QDs and some shoulder length runners for the 2nd pitch.
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
Be careful of the sharp edge on the dihedral @ 2nd to last bolt. It could cut your rope if you were unlucky! May 18, 2014
Chris. T.  
 
Pitch 1 has 13 bolts to anchor. Aug 5, 2012
Peter Irving
Boulder, Colorado
Peter Irving   Boulder, Colorado
Great climb today in early October flurries! Felt solid until I pulled on a loose block just to the right of the 5th (?) bolt and watched it go... scary. * the block directly above the first red X bolt mark in the detailed picture of the upper section. Oct 7, 2007
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
 
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
 
Pitch one of this route is just great. Pitch two is a bit mossy and OK, but not highly recommended. Two important pieces of information: the chockstone surrounded by orange lichen in the photo is soon to be freed from the surly bonds of its mortal coil, and hopefully its freedom won't be mortal for the belayer. Also, there is currently but one rap ring at the P1 anchors, so the rope must be fed through one of the anchor bolts directly, creating quite a bit of drag when pulling.

A slab section near the bottom is tricker than it appears. You may go left, directly up the thin slab, or do a lieback to the right. In the picture of P1 you see three right-pointing triangles. The apex of the first is near the chockstone. At the second, I recommend stemming the feet high to get the great two-fist jam; with this in place you can walk the feet up.

The third right-pointing triangle is the crux. It is very balancy, requiring a lieback on the arete with poor feet. Then you swing around, getting your stomach upon the slabby top part of the triangle in a trad-like move. There are no good holds to use and the friction of the open palm and forearm are required. Once the torso is on the slab, you can reach high to the right for a crappy sidepull. The bold part entails then leaning back and walking the feet up onto the slab before the clip attempt. The first time I tried this route I took several falls from this point but didn't manage to hurt myself. Thereafter a finger jam aids in the exit from the dihedral to the easy slab above. The crux move is all about balance and can be a bit distressing. Jun 14, 2006