Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Horan & Klee
Page Views: 267 total · 1/month
Shared By: Bruce Pech on May 11, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

The 1st pitch of Disneyland follows a line of bolts directly up the face below Lost Angel's South Tower. The 2nd pitch ascends a beautiful arete and face to the summit of the Tower.

DISCLAIMER. because I rarely on-sight .11d, I found the protection at the crux unsettling. Afraid that I'd swing into a block if I took a fall, I stood in a sling, clipped the last bolt, and lowered to the stance at the bolt below before continuing. Better climbers may be more comfortable with the placement of the crux bolts.

Either follow the base of the cliff uphill from Autumn, past Zentropa, to the Long Dong Dihedral or hike down the Wake Up Wall approach gully to the corner of the South Tower, turn north, and descend another 50 yards to Long Dong.

P1. Start up the Long Dong Dihedral, then follow bolts up a technically interesting face to a stance below a bulge ending in a right-leaning dihedral. Struggle over the PG-13 bulge into the insecure, cramped dihedral, clip the last bolt, and grope for good holds out of sight above. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor below a ramp, .11d, 100', 13 bolts.

P2. Climb easily to the ramp, make a dicey traverse left around the west arete of the South Tower (extend 1 or 2 clips to reduce rope drag), then climb a steep, sustained wall just left of the arete to a 2 bolt anchor near the summit, .11a, 80', 10 bolts.

Rap the route or descend the Wake Up Wall approach gully.

Protection

13 QDs and some shoulder length runners for the 2nd pitch.

Photos

Kevin Neilson
Boulder
 
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
 
Pitch one of this route is just great. Pitch two is a bit mossy and OK, but not highly recommended. Two important pieces of information: the chockstone surrounded by orange lichen in the photo is soon to be freed from the surly bonds of its mortal coil, and hopefully its freedom won't be mortal for the belayer. Also, there is currently but one rap ring at the P1 anchors, so the rope must be fed through one of the anchor bolts directly, creating quite a bit of drag when pulling.

A slab section near the bottom is tricker than it appears. You may go left, directly up the thin slab, or do a lieback to the right. In the picture of P1 you see three right-pointing triangles. The apex of the first is near the chockstone. At the second, I recommend stemming the feet high to get the great two-fist jam; with this in place you can walk the feet up.

The third right-pointing triangle is the crux. It is very balancy, requiring a lieback on the arete with poor feet. Then you swing around, getting your stomach upon the slabby top part of the triangle in a trad-like move. There are no good holds to use and the friction of the open palm and forearm are required. Once the torso is on the slab, you can reach high to the right for a crappy sidepull. The bold part entails then leaning back and walking the feet up onto the slab before the clip attempt. The first time I tried this route I took several falls from this point but didn't manage to hurt myself. Thereafter a finger jam aids in the exit from the dihedral to the easy slab above. The crux move is all about balance and can be a bit distressing. Jun 14, 2006
Peter Irving
Boulder, Colorado
Peter Irving   Boulder, Colorado
Great climb today in early October flurries! Felt solid until I pulled on a loose block just to the right of the 5th (?) bolt and watched it go... scary. * the block directly above the first red X bolt mark in the detailed picture of the upper section. Oct 7, 2007
Chris. T.  
 
Pitch 1 has 13 bolts to anchor. Aug 5, 2012
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
Be careful of the sharp edge on the dihedral @ 2nd to last bolt. It could cut your rope if you were unlucky! May 18, 2014