Type: Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Moe Hershoff, Dan Hare, 2002
Page Views: 2,734 total · 13/month
Shared By: Greaser on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Moe put this great route up a few years ago. It is between Divination and Earth Voyage. This is one of the best climbs in Dream Canyon. Sustained, varied and asthetic.

I only did the first 2 pitches.

1.) Start between Divination and Earth Voyage and move up to the line of bolts between them. Two cruxes on this pitch. Reachy with gastons and lay aways. (12c to 13a, ~12 bolts).

2.) Go up and slightly left from the anchors and follow the bolts. Slightly easier than the first pitch. (11d, ~12 bolts).

Crimp strength and fancy foot work will pay off big on this stellar route.

Protection

Lots of quick draws (15+) and a 60 meter rope.

Photos

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Greaser - thanks for putting this on the CB.C - just a small correction - this route lies between Divination (left) and Earth Voyage (right). The route between Autumn and Divination is a route that Dan Hare and I to a very small degree did last fall named Hunky Monkey. Nov 11, 2003
Greaser
  5.12c
Greaser  
  5.12c
Thanks for the correction, Tom. Nov 12, 2003
What determines whether this thing goes at 12c or 13a? Got on it today ... great first pitch.

Sep 17, 2004
Greaser
  5.12c
Greaser  
  5.12c
That is, somewhere between 12c and 13a, a range. I'm not good at grading but that is where it would fall, I think. Harder if you don't have long arms and a little height.

Great route, though. Sep 17, 2004
brent pohlmann
San Francisco, CA
brent pohlmann   San Francisco, CA
Does anyone know what the second pitch goes at? Sep 20, 2005
Felt pretty hard to me - couldn't figure out the first crux at the flaring, thin crack. The section after that was pretty hard as well and felt like 12c all on its own. Bullet rock though and a great line. Aug 9, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.13a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.13a
Mostly fun climbing but with a bouldery and unpleasant crux. Great rock, I just wish the climbing was a bit more consistent. Awfully hard crux for it to be 5.12, though I guess every extra bit of ape you have would help considerably. Apr 13, 2014
drewhouser
  5.13a/b
drewhouser  
  5.13a/b
Whew!! A toughie but a goodie. Excellent movement with a darn stout crux at the flaring crack with a beautiful, fun, 12c crux towards the end. If you are trying to break into 13s (which I'm convinced this is), this is great place to learn what it takes! Yes, being tall helps, but being strong helps more :) Aug 22, 2015