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Routes in Lost Angel

5.9 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dyno ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Moe Hershoff, Dan Hare, 2002
Page Views: 2,549 total, 13/month
Shared By: Greaser on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Moe put this great route up a few years ago. It is between Divination and Earth Voyage. This is one of the best climbs in Dream Canyon. Sustained, varied and asthetic.

I only did the first 2 pitches.

1.) Start between Divination and Earth Voyage and move up to the line of bolts between them. Two cruxes on this pitch. Reachy with gastons and lay aways. (12c to 13a, ~12 bolts).

2.) Go up and slightly left from the anchors and follow the bolts. Slightly easier than the first pitch. (11d, ~12 bolts).

Crimp strength and fancy foot work will pay off big on this stellar route.

Protection

Lots of quick draws (15+) and a 60 meter rope.

Photos

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drewhouser
  5.13a/b
drewhouser  
  5.13a/b
Whew!! A toughie but a goodie. Excellent movement with a darn stout crux at the flaring crack with a beautiful, fun, 12c crux towards the end. If you are trying to break into 13s (which I'm convinced this is), this is great place to learn what it takes! Yes, being tall helps, but being strong helps more :) Aug 22, 2015
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.13a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.13a
Mostly fun climbing but with a bouldery and unpleasant crux. Great rock, I just wish the climbing was a bit more consistent. Awfully hard crux for it to be 5.12, though I guess every extra bit of ape you have would help considerably. Apr 13, 2014
Felt pretty hard to me - couldn't figure out the first crux at the flaring, thin crack. The section after that was pretty hard as well and felt like 12c all on its own. Bullet rock though and a great line. Aug 9, 2010
brent pohlmann
San Francisco, CA
brent pohlmann   San Francisco, CA
Does anyone know what the second pitch goes at? Sep 20, 2005
Greaser
 
Greaser  
 
That is, somewhere between 12c and 13a, a range. I'm not good at grading but that is where it would fall, I think. Harder if you don't have long arms and a little height.

Great route, though. Sep 17, 2004
What determines whether this thing goes at 12c or 13a? Got on it today ... great first pitch.

Sep 17, 2004
Greaser
 
Greaser  
 
Thanks for the correction, Tom. Nov 12, 2003
Greaser - thanks for putting this on the CB.C - just a small correction - this route lies between Divination (left) and Earth Voyage (right). The route between Autumn and Divination is a route that Dan Hare and I to a very small degree did last fall named Hunky Monkey. Nov 11, 2003