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Routes in Lost Angel

5.9 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dyno ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 3 pitches
FA: Dan Hare
Page Views: 232 total, 1/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Warm up on P1, then think laterally on the next couple of interesting, tenuous, challenging pitches. This is another route that I've only done the first pitch of. It shares the first 2 bolts of Rock Odyssey, then it heads up and right to an independent anchor. The next 2 pitches look good, but I haven't gotten around to doing them.

Protection

Fully bolted. Most only do the first pitch at 10c.

Photos

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Scotty Nelson
Boulder
  5.12a
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
  5.12a
Too bad this route gets bad reviews here. I think it has since cleaned up. The route has a great mixture of stemming and (bolt protected) finger crack climbing @ the crux. Jun 22, 2015
Stephen Nance
Boulder, CO
Stephen Nance   Boulder, CO
FA: Dan Hare. Aug 13, 2012
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
The second pitch of this climb is very dirty, and I ripped off two dinner plates right at the crux, almost hospitalizing my dad (on fathers day no doubt). The first hold I tore off was glued on, but obviously not well enough, and the second was a bit higher- a foothold. I did not think that it increased the difficulty of the climb much, but just to warn climbers of the loose shit.

Too bad cause if this pitch was clean it would be very enjoyable. Jun 17, 2007
P2 is near classic: at 95', it's fairly long for a Boulder Canyon sport pitch and features an excellent progression of difficulty, starting w/ easy slabbing then getting steeper and harder almost all the way to the anchors. If this pitch were at Animal World or Easter Rock, it would see a lot of action and be slathered in chalk; as it is, it could use more traffic, having some lichen and a couple of inconvenient bushes near the end.

From the end of P2, you can lower or rap w/ a single 60m rope or you could do the third pitch, a sparsely bolted 5.9 which tops out.

We took a yellow and a red Alien, using the red (I think) at the start of P2 where there is a big gap between bolts and both on P3. Jul 25, 2006
Does anyone have any idea what the route is whose first pitch starts to the right of Awakenings and whose upper 3 to 4 (short) pitches are just to the left of Awakenings? It is quite enjoyable and has a few spots of hard 5.10 to easy 5.11 climbing. I think that it may be a Dan Hare route (who else?). Oct 21, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
That explains it! A couple of years ago I toproped this and had no trouble, even though I wasn't climbing that well. Today I hung all over the traverse, trying and failing multiple ways. I finally found a way that worked for me at maybe mid 10. And that is...Undercling the crack and reach up left for a good flake. Move the left foot up higher and stem way right to a decent hold. From there you can reach the good hold. Jan 1, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
I concur with Leo: the first pitch used to be a fun 10b, now it's solid 11. Aug 23, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
First, it is not closed. You just have to get up the road before 9am or reach it from the Sugarloaf Rd just north of Nederland.

Second, a key hold broke off the 1st pitch on the right-angling traverse bit. There is a fresh rock scar. It used to be a fun 10b. Now it feels about 11c. Jul 20, 2002