PRINT: Rock Climb Dynamometer, Boulder

Dynamometer

5.12d, Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches,

Avg: 2.9 from 16 votes
FA: Moe Hershoff, Dan Hare, 2002
Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Lost Angel

Description

Moe put this great route up a few years ago. It is between Divination and Earth Voyage. This is one of the best climbs in Dream Canyon. It is sustained, varied, and asthetic.

I only did the first 2 pitches.

P1. Start between Divination and Earth Voyage, and move up to the line of bolts between them. There are two cruxes on this pitch - reachy with gastons and layaways (12c to 13a, ~12 bolts).

P2. Go up and slightly left from the anchors and follow the bolts. It is slightly easier than the first pitch (11d, ~12 bolts).

P3. Per Patrick Hardy: join the last pitch of Divination (10a, 6 bolts).

Crimp strength and fancy foot work will pay off big on this stellar route.

Protection

Lots of quickdraws (15+) and a 60 meter rope.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tom Painter

Greaser - thanks for putting this on the CB.C - just a small correction - this route lies between Divination (left) and Earth Voyage (right). The route between Autumn and Divination is a route that Dan Hare and I to a very small degree did last fall named Hunky Monkey. Nov 11, 2003

Greaser

5.12c

Thanks for the correction, Tom. Nov 12, 2003

Anonymous Coward

What determines whether this thing goes at 12c or 13a? Got on it today ... great first pitch.

Sep 17, 2004

Greaser

5.12c

That is, somewhere between 12c and 13a, a range. I'm not good at grading but that is where it would fall, I think. Harder if you don't have long arms and a little height.

Great route, though. Sep 17, 2004

brent pohlmann
San Francisco, CA

Does anyone know what the second pitch goes at? Sep 20, 2005

Matt Henderson

Felt pretty hard to me - couldn't figure out the first crux at the flaring, thin crack. The section after that was pretty hard as well and felt like 12c all on its own. Bullet rock though and a great line. Aug 9, 2010

J. Albers
Colorado

5.13a

Mostly fun climbing but with a bouldery and unpleasant crux. Great rock, I just wish the climbing was a bit more consistent. Awfully hard crux for it to be 5.12, though I guess every extra bit of ape you have would help considerably. Apr 13, 2014

drewhouser

5.13a/b

Whew!! A toughie but a goodie. Excellent movement with a darn stout crux at the flaring crack with a beautiful, fun, 12c crux towards the end. If you are trying to break into 13s (which I'm convinced this is), this is great place to learn what it takes! Yes, being tall helps, but being strong helps more :) Aug 22, 2015

michalm

The first pitch seems pretty hard. Definitely evaded the onsight for me. The pitch between P3 of Divination and Earth Voyage has a lot of bolts and definitely detracts aesthetically from the excellent P3 of Earth Voyage, which is minimally bolted and committing. I am not sure why there are so many bolts up there. Apr 16, 2019

Jeff G
Buena Vista

5.13a/b

No way this thing is 12c. Really cool pitch, but the crux is really hard. May 26, 2020

Brandon Pereyra
Boulder, CO

I found myself on this route by mistake thinking it was Divination. At the time, I imagined someone must have used all the sand in the Sahara to fill Lost Angel's sandbag. Luckily the bolts at the crux are closely spaced, so I could skip past them. Jul 2, 2024