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Routes in Lost Angel

5.9 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dyno ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 3 pitches
FA: Richard Rossiter, Dan Hare, Bonnie Von Grebe, Amy Reynolds, 1996
Page Views: 5,779 total, 28/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start just right of Autumn. The first bolt looks high, but the route actually starts by traversing in from the right, a mellow proposition for anyone capable of climbing the remainder of the route.

P1. The first pitch is the best - excellent and sustained, with several small roofs. At about 100 feet, a somewhat uncomfortable belay provides a rest.

P2. The second pitch climbs up and left, then back to the right, with only one difficult move.

P3. Third pitch is more of a scramble, and pulls an awkward roof.

Protection

Fully bolted. 3 pitches.
BrendanP Moran
Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.11a
BrendanP Moran   Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.11a
Do the direct start for sure!

As for the last pitch, maybe it was the sudden flurry of golden snowflakes that happened upon us right at sunset, when the whole frozen canyon was bathing in the magnificent hues of a growing twilight, or maybe it was just a false spirituality brought on by the pain of my freezing toes in their over-tight shoes, but the last "roof" is actually really awesome. Sep 16, 2015
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.11b
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.11b
1st 2 pitches are bolted well - would have appreciated a couple pieces on the 3rd though... a couple ~25 ft runouts. Aug 6, 2012
Christina kalb
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Christina kalb   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
I am a bit shorter and thought that 11b was accurate. Some added height would have made it much easier (I couldn't reach the crimp off to the side of the roof that was really good). So my suggestion...if you are tall, you may find this slightly easier than 11b. Sep 27, 2009
Kyle Anderson
Payson, AZ
  5.11b
Kyle Anderson   Payson, AZ
  5.11b
I thought this was right around 11b: much more so than the other route that I have done here- Strange Cargo. I could see where added reach or height could help with the crux on this one, but since I am avg height and have short arms, I had to do a long reach with some shady feet to get through it.

I thought this was about as classic as they get- Nice line, nice exposure, nice area, nice climbing. Pretty kick ass.... Sep 27, 2009
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
  5.11a
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
  5.11a
The route is called Dynamometer. The first pitch I've heard is height-dependent 12-13a, and the second pitch is slabby 11d. The first four bolts or so make a great, and I thought slightly easier, link up to the first pitch of Divination. Jun 1, 2007
ac
ac  
Tom P wrote: "The route between Divination and Earth Voyage is named ?? - goes at ballpark .13a."

Anyone know what the 2nd pitch of said route is rated? Looks harder than 2nd pitch of Divination.

Thanks. Aug 11, 2005
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
  5.11a
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
  5.11a
Nice long route. It may be rated a bit softly. I was able to use high steps and find good feet through all the cruxy secfitons. Jul 8, 2005
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Great route. Beautiful rock all the way to the top. P1 seemed easy for 11b for me. A thin layback to reach over the ceiling to a big rounded hold. Done. Harder if short? P2 seemed way easier than the 11a given in the Rossiter guide. Maybe 10b? But fun. Had to rush P3 due to incoming rain, but it was also good fun. You traverse left through a roof. Chuck did as a slab (his specialty). I leaned out for the lip and did it as a roof (my specialty). Oct 10, 2004
Yeah I too went straight up and got on that 12d line. I enjoyed a number of the moves until one spot where I just kept looking around trying to figure out the next move. After a couple minutes it dawned on me that I was on the pitch Jim Erickson warned me about. "If you do that line, make sure you take the bolts up and left rather than going straight up the whole way."

Anyway, reaching that sloper after the slightly bulging roof was tough for a short person. Sep 22, 2004
I want to thank Richard Wright for his insight and consideration of those who dare to go where others have not and put it on the line to create something for the enjoyment and benefit of others. Royal Robbins once wrote, "The call of the first is strong." No doubt the forces that drive nuance are deep and complicated, never the less, there is an undeniable sense of giving to others and to the sport itself.

At least the FA should be listed correctly: R. Rossiter, Dan Hare, Bonnie Von Grebe, Amy Reynolds, 1996. Oct 27, 2003
I'm sooo glad to hear, that the new bolts to the right of Divination are a different/harder line. I was about ready to take up bass fishing, if that was 11.b. Once Lyle and I discovered the correct line, we put off the trip to the bait and tackle shop. Great route! Much easier than its neighbor??? Plenty of bolts eg. no need for gear, also lots of options for the upper pitches. Sep 20, 2003
The route between Divination and Earth Voyage is named ?? - goes at ballpark .13a. It is frequently mistaken for Divination - a Moe ? and Dan Hare route. A pair of cruxes, the first and harder in the neighborhood of bolts 5-6 and then a second still stout crux at about 8-10.

Hey, is it just me or did all the rain and snow sprout tons of penises and shrubs in Dream Canyon this year? Seems that it has been decorated like a Georgia O'Keefe gallery.... Jul 13, 2003
After traversing left on the ramp at the start of pitch one, the first set of bolts encountered appears to be a new route and harder than 11b. Divination is one more set of bolts to the left. Does anyone have details on this other route that's between Divination and Earth Voyage? Jun 30, 2003
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Hear!! Hear!! to Richard Rossiter. Sometimes the setting of big routes like Divination is more than just hard work. Sometimes it is downright spooky and intimidating. In getting long routes established, it is often necessary to rap off the rim and drop down one or two full rope lengths (sometimes many) just to check out a crag, before starting the work. It can be very little comfort indeed to tie a knot in the end of the rope (or two) and then rap right to it with several hundred more feet between yourself and terra firma -- very firma. Especially if the line overhangs. Imagine big, overhanging limestone in the middle of nowhere on the Western slope, miles from anything, all alone, at knot and with the wind blowing. Or same thing in Boulder Canyon. It's a lot more spooky than clocking up pitches in Eldo or on the Diamond.

Personally, I think that these long, multi-pitch routes that Richard Rossiter, Bob Horan, and Dan Hare have been doing are really inspirational. These routes on Lost Angel are fully sussed, well constructed, many pitches long, and as clean as anything can get in God's great outdoors. I'd buy that as just as significant as the hardest single move attainable on rock, more in fact. May 6, 2003
Setting up a route like Divination is so much work, I think it is relevant to get the FA information correct. I got the idea to do this line just after Bob Horan completed Earth Voyage.I began working on this line with Bonnie Von Grebe and completed the two upper pitches with her. Later Dan Hare and I worked out the first pitch. I have nice photos of Dan drilling on this pitch.Dan and I climbed the first pitch in the dark and rapped off. Amy Reynolds and I climbed the upper two pitches, then Dan and Amy climbed the whole thing while I was working on Diabolique with Bonnie. The FA should probably read: R Rossiter, Dan Hare, Bonnie Von Grebe, Amy Reynolds, 1996. May 5, 2003
Yo - Dan Hare and I added a 3 bolt direct start to Divination back in September. Goes somewhere along the lines of .11d/.12a (if you stay on the face rather than exiting right to the mank handjam). Makes for 30 m and 13 bolts of great climbing. Hope you enjoy it! Nov 2, 2002
Cristo is right on 10+ at most - no extra geer needed - there are plenty of bolts!! Aug 19, 2002
If you can get up the well bolted crux first pitch, the remainder of the route should seem relitively easy and require no extra gear. This is a very fun route. Well worth doing. Jul 22, 2002
If the 1st pitch was in Eldo it might be called 10+ but I think it's pretty solid (boulder canyon) 5.11.... Dec 17, 2001
Anyone thinking about this route as 5.10+ probably doesn't need extra pro so take the above comment with a grain of salt. Aug 29, 2001
I found this line to be quite fun, but a little soft for the grade, more like 5.10+. Although the first pitch is the hardest of the three, I found the second pitch to be most rewarding because the line was more aesthetic and straightforward. I don't feel anything other than quickdraws is necessary, all the moves that are at all difficult are well protected with bolts. Aug 8, 2001
Although "fully bolted" may be close to the truth, most parties doing the whole climb may want to take a few slings and a light rack including TCUs, Friends up to #2, and a few stoppers. The last pitch is a bit more than a scramble with a 5.10a roof and a 40 foot unbolted 5.5 section. A 60 meter rope gets you back to the ground in 3 rappells Jan 1, 2001