Type: Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FFA: Thom Byrne, 1988
Page Views: 36,409 total · 484/month
Shared By: monkeyvanya on Jul 14, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


71 Opinions

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Description

The route climbs up an obvious, arching, right-facing dihedral to the right of China Doll . Residual dirt and tiny loose crystals can still be found in places, but all the crucial holds are solid. The line has moves somewhat similar to those on China Doll and IMO provides a good warm-up/training for later.

I suggest linking P1 & 2, if you are comfortable pulling 5.11a moves above a small ledge.

P1. Climb short 5.9 to a small ramp with a 2-bolt anchor.

P2. Follow bolts past dihedral, get over the ceiling and continue underclinging to chains.

Location

Archangel is right of China Doll and left of Digital Dilemma.

Protection

P1: 3 bolts to bolted anchor.
P2: 9 bolts to bolted anchor.

Photos