Avg: 2.1 from 8 votes
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft (21 m)|
|FA:||Richard Rossiter, Bonnie Von Grebe|
|Page Views:||952 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Ivan Rezucha on Oct 10, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Start at the base the rightmost vertical crack that leads up from the ledge. This crack is Take the Power Back (5.9). This and the two climbs left of it, Crack in the Wall (10a) and the Killing in the Name (9) are nice looking trad climbs.
The first bolt is just off the ground and is shared by Rush and Take the Power Back. Move right and up onto some big crystals to the 2nd bolt at a steep wall. Move up to some positive holds and clip the 3rd bolt. Pull over the bulge (crux) either by reaching or lunging to buckets up and right (ugly) or by pulling left into the crack. There was a lot of chalk on the crack, but climbing the crack directly looked much harder, although perhaps necessary if you are below a certain height.
The 4th bolt is on the wall of the short right facing corner through the ceiling. The ceiling is rated 10d on the Rossiter topo, but felt about 10a (or 9+?)to me, and fun, with good feet and hands.
Above, you can move either left or right and run it out about 25 feet up easier cracks (5.6 or so) to anchors. The left crack is a bit harder than the right crack, and perhaps longer. A couple of hand-sized cams would be a good idea if you're not comfortable climbing unprotected at that grade.
Between the two finishing cracks is an obvious moderate-looking finger crack over a small bulge. Why doesn't the route continue up this crack? Perhaps Rossiter wanted to keep this a sport route and didn't want to bolt the crack.
I'm rating this 11b as per the Rossiter Boulder Canyon guide, but for me, it felt hard 10 based on the trad ratings I'm more familiar with. It is definitely easier for me than Rage Against the Machine.