Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Vaino Kodas & Moe Hershoff, 2003
Page Views: 1,026 total · 4/month
Shared By: Bruce Pech on Sep 1, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Begin about 10' right of Rage Against the Machine and 15' left of Jungle Blues from Jupiter. There's a better photo of the route under the entry for "The Vaino Step." Follow a line of 5 bolts up a moderate .10b face toward an arete on the right. The 6th bolt is drilled into sloping ledge under a large roof. Undercling the roof, then clip the 7th bolt from a chalky, 3/4" edge. Stretch or dyno from the 3/4" edge to a left hand jam in an abrasive crack (strenuous), and work your feet up crystals until you can reach a fin on the right. Clip the 8th bolt (a difficult clip with ledge-fall potential if you skip it), and struggle over the lip of the overhang on mediocre holds. The anchors are a few feet up to the right. Lower 60' from links.

The 15' of climbing from the ledge to the anchors is sustained with several moves of .11c or .11c/d. Tape or a spider mitt will save some skin on your left hand.

Protection Suggest change

8 QDs (A shoulder length sling to extend the 6th clip is optional).

Photos

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