Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas & Moe Hershoff, 2003
Page Views: 222 total · 1/month
Shared By: Bruce Pech on Sep 1, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Begin about 10' right of Rage Against the Machine and 15' left of Jungle Blues from Jupiter. There's a better photo of the route under the entry for "The Vaino Step." Follow a line of 5 bolts up a moderate .10b face toward an arete on the right. The 6th bolt is drilled into a large, sloping rest ledge under a 130 degree roof. Undercling the roof then clip the 7th bolt from a chalky, 3/4" edge. Stretch or dyno from the 3/4" edge to a left hand jam in an abrasive crack (strenuous) and work your feet up crystals until you can reach a fin on the right. Clip the 8th bolt (a difficult clip with ledge-fall potential if you bypass it) and struggle over the lip of the overhang on mediocre hand holds. The anchors are a few feet up to the right. Lower 60' from links.

The 15' of climbing from the ledge to the anchors is sustained with several moves of .11c or .11c/d. Tape or a spider mitt will save some skin on your left hand.

Protection

8 QDs (A shoulder length sling to extend the 6th clip is optional).

Photos

slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
Accidently climbed this thinking it was Rage.... When I was up there, I was thinking 'damn, this is tougher than I remember it'. Kind of an awkward flick to a weird jam. Nov 5, 2012
Mark Rolofson
  5.11d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11d
The climb offers a good warm-up to a powerful crux. I use the face holds to the lip. Then I use a couple hand jams over the lip to pull onto the slab. Last time I did the route I got cut on the back of my hands. Old skin ain't so tough! There is a wide hand jam in the roof, but I have always avoided it. It is really rough with some sharp crystals. I have considered climbing the route with spider mitts so I could use this jam. Instead I have always done the overhanging face moves, which are fun with a bit of a dyno. Jun 11, 2017