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Routes in Lost Angel

5.9 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dyno ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport
FA: Rob Stanley, Stef Streich, 1997
Page Views: 2,784 total, 15/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Drop Zone is located on the Wake Up Wall of Lost Angel. The route follows a fun arete on great rock with good pro. Begin about 15 feet to the right of the obvious dihedral of Jungle Blues.

Start with a tricky move on steep rock (crux), this will be safer for tall people who can clip the 1st bolt before commiting to the move. Cruise on up the arete moving to its left side and making some slab moves. Near the end of the route enter a shallow dihedral and make a move up and left to the anchor at 90'.

Protection

7 draws and something for the 2 bolt anchor.

Brian Adzima
San Francisco
 
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
 
One of the best pitches I have done in Boulder Canyon. Pretty similar to 'Bolting for Glory' in difficulty. Apr 20, 2008
Casey H
Boulder, CO
Casey H   Boulder, CO
This route was very interesting indeed! I was sketched out by the decking possibilities pulling over each lip on the different steps. The nut on the second bolt was loose when I got there. If any one has some nut glue and is heading that way, it could us a dab! If not, check it as you climb by... Sep 23, 2007
Brenda Leach
Sandy, Utah
Brenda Leach   Sandy, Utah
I found a way to do the crux (pictured in the 3rd and 4th photos) that actually seemed pretty reasonable. As far as I can remember, I put both hands on a decent hold at the top of the bulge. Then, I walked up the crack on the right with BOTH feet. I was told that I was pretty much horizontal at this point. Then, I reached my left hand up to the good horizonal edge above, followed by the right hand (although I ended up crossing my right hand over my left to get that edge). I'm 5'5" and nothing seemed very reachy doing it this way. Try it that way! Aug 17, 2005
Matt Juth
Evergreen
  5.10d
Matt Juth   Evergreen
  5.10d
After doing a bunch of 5.10 piches in Dream and BC, I think this one is in the 10+/11- range for me. Might be the good ol' height factor mentioned earlier. Either way, it is a great climb that shouldn't be missed if you are walking by. Mar 7, 2005
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
I don't understand the comments about "arete" and "roofs". There is some steep rock, but only "bulges" at best. And there is no arete, although I did at the third hard section use the right edge of the face with my right hand. (See photos.)

The crux is pulling onto the slab at the third bolt. If you are really tall, this might be easy (I'm 6' 3" and don't qualify). Else the good holds may be sucker holds. I finally figured out a trick move that might be 10b, although I didn't find this easier way until my second time on the climb.

The upper "slab" is steep with many thin edges. Felt pretty hard, but mostly I was unsure of which edges to use. Maybe hard 9? Oct 12, 2003
Jay Hippel
Denver, CO
Jay Hippel   Denver, CO
Finished straight up through slab at the top- nothing to hold or step on. Don't know if I should have moved right into the chimmney/dihedral or stay on the slab, but the slab was freakin tough. Barely got through it with no falls. No much experience, but some of the harder 10b moves I've ever done at the top. There are definitely more than 6 bolts (maybe 8 or 10 if I remember right). May 23, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10b
Interesting differences of opinions. Some of the disagreement may be due to how directly the route was climbed. For me the first bolt was trivial, but I stepped left around it. The second bolt was hard, the third bolt was hard, and impossible for my partner who was shorter. We climbed just left of the third bolt. Just right looked reasonable, but wasn't for us. The 5th bolt was easy, but I laybacked off the arete to reach over the top. If you instead reach left for the left edge of the flake, it could be harder. The stand up above the 5th bolt was scary for me. I stepped right into the chimney, clipped the 6th bolt, then went back down and re-climbed that section. The upper face seemed much easier with positive holds. Jan 1, 2003
Really good! I thought the crux was changing midsets from climbing steep sections and slight overhangs to thin slab at the top. Aug 26, 2002
Counted 8 bolts on this one, even though the guidebooks say 6. The second roof felt committing, although the next one was trickier. I like this problem, it's very varied. Jul 23, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Thought the crux was a bit higher as you go past the last bulge. There are 2 ways to do it. L - less obvious, but good holds, R - thinner, scumming the corner a bit. I'm 5'10". Apr 5, 2002