Type: Trad, Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: Pitch 1 - Bob Horan, pitch 2 - Mike Patz
Page Views: 21,349 total · 103/month
Shared By: Mike Patz on Aug 21, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This route climbs the obvious spectacular right-leaning crack in the middle of Lost Angel Wall. The first pitch features technical stemming with a boulder-problem crux in the middle. The business of the second pitch is about 25 feet of sustained cranking up the thin arching crack.

Pitch 1 - climb a short 5.10ish bolted pitch to anchors where the crack begins. Continue up the crack either placing gear or clipping bolts on the right and finish at a 3-bolt anchor (5.13b/c).

Pitch 2 - do a couple of easy moves where the crack is wide. Come out of the offwidth, and grovel with thrutchy lieback moves and finger/tips locks for about 25 feet of super-pumpy rock climbing. At one point, a glued-on hold was utilized here to avoid the difficulties. After running it out for the last 12 or so feet, pull into a scoop where you can rest. Keep going up the crack, and finish with tricky 5.11ish climbing to two hangerless bolts on the right. Stop here or continue up for about 10 feet, then go left out the roof clipping two bolts that bring you to Beauty and the Bolts (11d). Top out Beauty and the Bolts or traverse left to anchors and go down (5.13+).

The rest (P3-5) of China Doll apparently has not gone free.

Protection

The first pitch is protected by bolts and a pin but can be led on gear. For the second pitch a #3.5 Camalot, #4 Black Diamond nut, a larger nut and a couple of #0.75 cams or orange Aliens gets it done. More small gear to aid it or work it.

Photos