Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lost Angel

5.9 Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
AAArete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Archangel S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Autumn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Awakenings S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Be Here Now T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boy's World T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Caterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
China Doll T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Crazy Wisdom T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disneyland S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Divination S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Divination Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drop Zone S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dynamometer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dyno ArĂȘte S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Earth Voyage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fright Grooves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Host, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Hunky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Interzone T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killing in the Name T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Knowoneness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Life on Mars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Dong Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost in Tradslation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Lunch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Night Grooves S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Outta This World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Podophobia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Primal Cinema S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rage Against The Machine T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raise the Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Odyssey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rush S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shape Shifters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shunyata T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Signs of Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spiders From Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Standard Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strange Cargo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take the Power Back T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Technical Remote Viewing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Time Traveler T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vaino Step, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weenie Roast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zentropa T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pitch 1 - Bob Horan, pitch 2 - Mike Patz
Page Views: 13,136 total, 81/month
Shared By: Mike Patz on Aug 21, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route climbs the obvious spectacular right-leaning crack in the middle of Lost Angel Wall. The first pitch features technical stemming with a boulder-problem crux in the middle. The business of the second pitch is about 25 feet of sustained cranking up the thin arching crack.

Pitch 1 - climb a short 5.10ish bolted pitch to anchors where the crack begins. Continue up the crack either placing gear or clipping bolts on the right and finish at a 3-bolt anchor (5.13b/c).

Pitch 2 - do a couple of easy moves where the crack is wide. Come out of the offwidth, and grovel with thrutchy lieback moves and finger/tips locks for about 25 feet of super-pumpy rock climbing. At one point, a glued-on hold was utilized here to avoid the difficulties. After running it out for the last 12 or so feet, pull into a scoop where you can rest. Keep going up the crack, and finish with tricky 5.11ish climbing to two hangerless bolts on the right. Stop here or continue up for about 10 feet, then go left out the roof clipping two bolts that bring you to Beauty and the Bolts (11d). Top out Beauty and the Bolts or traverse left to anchors and go down (5.13+).

The rest (P3-5) of China Doll apparently has not gone free.

Protection

The first pitch is protected by bolts and a pin but can be led on gear. For the second pitch a #3.5 Camalot, #4 Black Diamond nut, a larger nut and a couple of #0.75 cams or orange Aliens gets it done. More small gear to aid it or work it.
Tank Evans
  5.14a R
Tank Evans  
  5.14a R
The description above is out of date, and I figured this excellent route could use a more clear description. China Doll, as a gear route, is done as one long 130ft pitch at 14a. To start, either 1) solo the 5.10 original start, or 2) scramble up the 5.8 to the right to reach the ledge below the obvious splitter corner. Make difficult moves over marginal gear to get established in the crack, a large HB offset and offset master-cam are usefull here. Climb the crack, placing relatively good but widely spaced gear, until the large horn feature at the old anchor (13b/c). From the horn rest, it is full-on tips jamming for 20ft in a right-leaning, overhanging corner that wants to spit you out the whole way (13+). A microcam and small stopper protect this crux section. The thin crack ends in an alcove, take a breath, and don't blow the funky 5.11 to the anchor. Though the final crux section goes somewhere in the 13d range, the whole climb adds up both mentally and physically to an outstanding 14a. Rack : 1 large offset HB (#5 or 6), small offset Mastercam, singles from 00C3-#1, with doubles #0.4, #0.5, and #0.75, and 1 small stopper. Oct 21, 2012
Ken, I sent this route last year ( 04) Sep 2, 2005
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
Hey, Jim, did you send China Doll? If so, good send. You must be fit. BTW, how's it going. It's good to see a familiar face. I have been gone for a long time. KC Aug 7, 2005
Mike Patz  
 
I called the first pitch what the Rossiter book calls the first two pitches. At the first pitch crux where the route used to traverse right via a former glued-on foothold you must now go straight up. It is a difficult boulder problem and I have heard the pitch is now a little harder than when the glued foot was there, but if done on gear I think it would be much safer than when Adam did it traversing right. Also the route is now 100% natural. Aug 26, 2004
Congrats on free climbing the second pitch without adding bolts! Give yourself a high-five. I heard the glued foothold on the first pitch is gone. How did you do the middle section of this pitch? Aug 26, 2004
Good job, Mike Patz, but I am confused by this - I thought the first and second pitches had already been sent by Bob Horan, and the 1st and 2nd pitches had been sent without bolts by Adam Stack. Please clarify. Aug 25, 2004
Mike Patz  
 
I did this route in two pitches clipping bolts on the first and preplaced gear on the second. It is a continuous crack that could safely go as one tremendous pitch placing gear and clipping a piton. It may or may not up the grade since there is a no-hands rest before the first anchors, but it would certainly be a more bad-ass endeavor. However you climb it, it's an excellent and challenging crack climb super close to Boulder. Aug 24, 2004
Mike Patz  
 
I did this route as a two pitch climb on pre-placed gear, but it can go in one tremendous pitch safely protected by gear placed on lead as well as clipping one piton and possibly a bolt. The two pitches are separated by a no-hands rest just before the first pitch anchors but it is still possible that linking them could up the grade. It is also possible that taller people may not get a good rest. However you choose to climb this route, I recommend it to anyone looking for an excellent and challenging crack close to Boulder. Aug 24, 2004